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12" Saw blade hook?9/6
I use a 12' Sliding mite saw saw for most of all my cutting what is the best blade so I can achieve no tear out on the backside of my cuts? Is negative 5 degrees the right blade?
I made a zero clearance insert for my saw out of a white plexiglass type of material and use a sacrificial piece of scrap to back up the cut in the rear. Past that, I use a 80 tooth Diablo fine finish blade. I have heard good things about the Forrest Wood Worker blades but have a hard time paying that much for one.
Miter blades are usually a -2* or -5* hook. There is no real appreciable difference between the two in cut quality on a good blade.
On my 12" SCMS I have a Royce Ayr 80t with no insert and get no bottom tear out. Grind is a 4ATB-R with a 20* top angle and a -5* hook. I might get some occasionally at the back edge of the cut but that depends as much on what I'm cutting as the blade. I use an ZCI plate with replaceable inserts on my fixed miter saw but that's more for ease of lining up cuts than tearout.
Forrest 12" chopmaster gives a better for longer cut with only 80 teeth than any brand I've tried(CMT, Freud, Tenyru). Each brand 2 blades for 3 sharpenings each blade.
The Forrest are so much better its really not worth debating about.
The problem people have is not having easy access to Forrest or a really good sharpening service than won't trash the blades.
Forrest sits on top of the retail blade market and they are a better product that most if not all of the consumer grade blades but almost everything they make is a specialty grind. The Chopmaster uses a H-ATB+R grind to get the shiny look on their miters. Basically it's a melamine blade with raker teeth. The grind is great for brittle material but runs hot, is pretty fragile and dulls fast. Companies like CMT and Freud use similar geometry or in the case of Tenyru an ATAF+R grind which is also designed for really brittle materials. All are chasing the same mirror finish on a miter but at the end of the day all it is is mill glaze.
Forrest always seems to be the knee jerk reaction for quality but companies like FS Tool , Royce Ayr and Everlast make blades that have much better edge life and tension. Most of the saw shops I've dealt with have repped at least one of them but you're unlikely to see them on the shelf at a woodworking retail store. They're not cheap but the price is comparable to Forrest and you get a lot more blade for the money.
To the OP. In a 12" scms I don't usually go over 80t. I'd recommend either the FS Tool LM 4300 or the Royce Ayr 16120801. Conservative geometry, heavy plates, standard kerf, really good edge life, large carbide teeth and tensioned for cutting miters. In a 12" fixed miter saw I run an FS Tool SM6300. It's easily the best blade I've ever used and I've used most including Forrest. If the price tag on those chokes you (neighborhood of $150-$200) Royce has a line called the Proline. Similar to the premium industrial blades but the price is closer to $120 per blade. I own a number of them and they are damn good for the price.
Much will have to do with your saw rather than the blade. Any run-out will cause poorer results. Same goes for the fences. After years of use (& abuse) I machined new fences for our Omga out of solid alloy bar stock. (I've got a milling machine.) We use FS or Leuco blades on our miter saw. They are a bit pricy and need to be sharpened by a careful service with automated equipment. FS or Leuco and other high end companies can give you a recommendation. Blades with very high points will cut better initially but go down hill very quickly. The blades we are using are ATB 80T designed for miters. Most ATBR blades are general purpose blades.
I am friends with the local cnc sharpening service and have had the opportunity to try most brands and types except the forest blades. As Adam mentioned above it just hasnt been convenient for me to get my hands on them. My experience has been that bang for the buck you cant beat the freud blades. Their lighter weight and thinner kerf is easier on the portable saw motors than the thicker more expensive blades. Have them resharpened as needed until your sharpening service tells you that you need to buy a new one.