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Solid slab black walnut bar top5/19
Hey all, think I need some advice from the wood web...I have a job to build a natural edge bar top...the top is U shaped 20' x18' x 20'.... The customer is being pretty insistent on making it one soilid piece...I think it's a recipe for disaster . So, I have a couple questions 1.) if this is done in one piece what possible precautions could I take to prevent this top from excessive movement..
I have made plenty of bar tops for private people in there homes from solid slabs one piece, but none this large... I prefer to use the west system for table glue ups but like i said those were on a much smaller scale.....my slabs are all air dried and usually use a spar and plenty of coats of interlux sealer, fill every void and check with epoxy as well as butterfly any checks.....I'm just a little nervous for this job because it's a large bar top( larger then I've ever done) in a new restaurant on the water.... Any advice would be helpful
I live in spindale NC, I just cut a walnut tree and I have a huge log that you could use
I wouldn't be able to use it for this project but ...I'm deffinetly interested, email me please....firstname.lastname@example.org
Use thick walnut. Be sure it's dry. Quarter sawn would hold up best against movement. I use wood glue and a pocket hole jig to join live edge slabs, but never anything as large as you are talking, so the pocket screws might not be so great for that. I'd think TitebondIII would be a better choice than epoxy for joining wood edge to edge. I doubt there are many folks with great experience doing what you are about to do, so you might have to wing it & hope for the best while learning from your mistakes.
Thanks Eric, I was figuring as much, and also was thinking of titebond lll.....thanks for the input
A 2"-3" thick slab won't move a lot especially if it is quarter sawn. And they are available in the required width. That long I'd look real hard a kiln dried wood assuming the bar is inside. And hope the customer has deep pockets.
Thanks Steve, quarter sawn is deffinetly the optimal cut for this project, but like u said, he will be spending some big bucks
By "one piece", I hope that you mean "three pieces". There should be no problem with a single slab per length, just finish the undersides in the same manner as the tops. I'd be weary of miter joints though. Even on the coast, the wood will move, and as the top changes width without changing length, the angle of that miter cut is also changing. It'll open sooner than you'd like.
Yeah thanks mark, it's the movement in the miters that worry me the most...
Just an idea for the joint.
Use something like a breadboard end cap but double sided with dovetailing. Contrasting color (sap wood?) on a 45 degree joint. ---//
Thanks Steve, I like the idea but I'm not sure if I'm quite following...I'm familiar with a bread board on a regular table, but how would this be applied to the miters of a u shape top...
I'll try and say what I'm thinking, hopium!
A bread board end piece is basically a tongue and grove like flooring. Instead, use dovetails but double sided. Grove in the joining pieces (about 1 1/2" wide and as deep as the table top), tongues on the table pieces. My picture of the project has the joint at 45 degrees to the leg of the 'U". You'd slide the joining piece on one section and then slide the table piece on to that. I'd use some glue but only on one end not full width because the wood has to be able to move. I'd favor the inside arc (corner?) of the U for the glue. Likewise when fastening the actual table to the supporting frame you have to make allowances for movement. I think it's called a "Z" clip but not sure on that.
The double dove tail idea might be too complicated to assemble, maybe dovetail on one side and tongue and groove on the other would work better? Maybe just tongue and groove?
Thanks Steve, shockingly I was able to understand what you are suggesting..it makes a lot of sense, like I said the miter joint is my biggest concern , and I hadn't considered milling abread board piece for the miter joint.... And I am familiar with the z clips....thank you for the advice