I am trying to cut thin wood 5" wide and .100 thick. The problem i am having is wit the blade. The kerf marks from the blade are so deep that it takes too long to sand out. Any ideas ? Dan

If you have a log band saw you can use blades with stellit teeth. Pitch 22 mm. The advantages with that type of blade are that the teeth doesn't are set, all the teeth has the same width. I am sure you would be satisfied with the surface finish from that kind of blade. The saw has also to be in good condition, good guides, well balanced wheels and so on.

Buy a different blade with less set. I've never used a carbide tipped, but read they will give you a much better finish, but much slower feed.

Circular or band blade?

A good blade will be side dressed, meaning that the protrusion of the teeth on each side of the blade will be uniform. Without this side dressing, you will get a very rough surface that will require lots of sanding to become smooth. How is sharpeninging your saws ? Get that person to change or buy a different saw that is better.

Dan, I've got a Woodmizer band mill, and One thing I've done, is to run down the cant with my Makita 1806B power plane before cutting off the thin veneer. Then I've already got one good side to work from.

As Gene has pointed out, stacking very thin planks can be a problem due to sagging. Since I'm sawing green for my own use, what I do, rather than stack and sticker, is hang them from a rafter in my shed with spring clamps. It doesn't take long to dry this way, since there is plenty of air circulation all around. And of course I cut rift or QS from a good part of the log, so cupping isn't a problem.

Another tip, is when it's time to run the other side through the planer, I feather the front end down to less than the final thickness, so some of that wood will already be under the out feed roller before the knives start cutting, otherwise planers have an appetite for eating some of the laminates.

Keith......i have been doing the plane one side and then cutting and that works fairly well.
I have had little luck planing the thin stock.
I have an oscar 18 and made a sled to run the stock through with the blade stationary.
I reduced the set to around .005 and the blade dived in and out of the cut so that was a bust.
I was thinking of perhaps a swedged blade might help if there is such a thing for that little mill.
Thanks all for the replies Dan

Dan, I'm familiar with the Hud-son mills as I own a Farmboss AND I used to be a dealer. An 18 is awful small to be attempting that type of accuracy BUT it can be achievable IF you'll tune-up your saw....the smaller wheels may make it harder when shimming/tuning. The competitor Cooks sawmills has written GREAT articles on tuning/trueing up a bandsawmill to cut true and effecient. Most of all the tuning is setting and adjustments not purchases beyond a few dials and meters needed. You'll be surprised how a little tweeking will make your saw cut GREAT!! The 18's narrow and small carraige and track may be hard to get to run consistantly smooth BUT your sled may be the answer.
Purchase the digital angle reader and cook's blade setter (sorry I'm not politically correct on the proper names of the items).
Keep us informed.

This (Cook's) info would be great for anyone with a bandsawmill.

Tim...saw has been tuned up as per cook instructions. It seems to be more of a set problem but perhaps flutter mixed in too.
Like your website Dan

I'll go over the tune up procedure again i may have missed something or just had one on my dumb spots or senior moments.

Thanks Dan.
Partly a misread on my part....I read the dive BUT that was with a test set.

What brand of blade are you running??? Have you checked with tim cook re a blade for resawing (they're wonderful to help!!)
There's so many different pitches and sets for different purposes. You may be able to change angle or spacing and correct to a finer surface. A small thickness sander may work better in the long run.
I've tried several brands and some are smoother than others. Are you sharpening and setting your blades?? I've got a local sharpener whom seems to do good. I'm trying a blade designed for wider cuts BUT it has more kerf marks.

Just a slight change in set makes a world of difference .....IF your coiling and uncoiling your blades you may be bumping a few out of line in shipping or uncoiling.
Keep us informed on what you find.

I made some 0.064 material the other day and couldn't do it on a tablesaw without some sawmarks. Had to timesaver it all. Seems to me, you might be asking more than the tool can deliver.

In the process of building a sharpener and a setter. I've got a very sick wife so i do't get much time in the shop or on the mill.
Background.....I'm doing shaker boxes that require thin wood for construction. The smaller ones need stock that is .075 thick x 3 inches wide give or take. As mentioned i can do those on the table saw and then finish them in the drum sander. The wider ones are .090 thick and 4.5 wide. Those will be best done in the band saw if i can get a relatively smooth cut on the mill. I.E. plane a 3/4 in board and run it through a resaw sled then finish that side on the drum sander. This group is the best for ideas and i think this explanation will help spark some more thanks .....Dan