You have 3 basic options:
>Hone the knives in the (non-rotating) head with a fine oil or water stone. This is slow and a bit hazardous since you are sliding the stone along the knife and you can easily slice fingers. It also has a very small sharpening effect in that it is difficult to remove much steel and impossible to remove nicks. Loosening gibs and shifting one or two knives a 1/16" or so sideways in the head will help minimize nicks.
>Use a factory made jointer grinder to grind the knives in the (non- rotating) head. Search your machine by the model number to find out if this even an option for your model. If so, it is a pretty quick way to get a new edge on the knives. Some of those machines also have a jointing stone that is designed to just barely touch the knives while they are spinning to bring them all into a perfect cutting circle. This can only be done a couple of times before a regrind is needed since it increases the 'land' of the knife - increasing noise, and taking more power to plane the same amount of wood.
> Send out knives to a qualified knife grinder to be sharpened. It is best to have 2 or 3 sets of knives: have one in the head, one out to be ground and one back-up set. This requires the effort to remove and reset, but is the most common way to get sharp knives into the machine.
The knife grinders are all wet grinders, with magnetic bases, a somewhat specialized machine that few, if any woodshops would ever invest in to do their own knives. Dry grinding, with a cup stone in a drill press, can work, but risks burning the steel with heat build-up and drawing out the temper. This means the knives will not hold an edge and will need grinding much more often than if the hardness is preserved.
There are also replacement heads with small knives or chips in steel, carbide or other compounds, or Tersa heads with throwaway quick change knives.
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