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Re-Saw blade wondering

5/21/14       
Gary

Sometimes during re-sawing my blades seems to fall into a pattern of moving from side to side which produces a series of "speed bumps" on the surface of the re-sawn material. Does this sound like a particular adjustment needs to be made? It seems to do it in all species in verticle and flat grain.

5/21/14       #2: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
Correy Smith

sharpness, blade tension, feed speed.
Unsure of what you mean by resaw. The 1" bands people use often on smaller BS are not really resaw bands. Resaw blades are wider 2"+. You can of course do quite a bit of resawing with a 1" band and get good results if tuned properly for our saw and specie your working with.
Does the back of the band ride on the thrust bearing the whole time your sawing? IF it is not exceptionally sharp the blade wanders. You could also have some teeth not set properly.
More info on tension type of blade specie being cut , feed speeds etc.. before anyone could really give much advice.

5/22/14       #3: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
Gary

Blade is a brand new 1-1/4" Lennox "Re-saw Master" blade tensioned to 20 on tension gauge. Does it with other blades as well. Feed speed is on slowest speed on feeder but not sure of actual speed. Carter bearing guides. Blade does ride in thrust bearing groove. Wandering blade is random occurrence; most of time everything is great. Can anyone offer results from guide blocks vs. bearings?

5/28/14       #4: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
B.H. Davis Member

Gary,

I get my Lennox blades from U-Cut Enterprises in New York. They will be able to give you tensioning specifications and will loan you a blade tensioning gauge.

This service was very helpful to us a number of years ago when we were sorting out cutting problems with our resaw band saw.

Also I find that a 1" to 1 1/4" blade is more than adequate for any resawing we do. From softwoods to hardwoods, 4" to 16" wide the blades do fine. We use hook tooth blades with 3/4" tooth spacing.

BH Davis

5/28/14       #5: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
Gary

I just changed back to a previously used model of Lennox blade and the problem completely vanished. So much for a new and improved blade type. I read some rave reviews about it so I thought I would give a try. Thank you very much for the feed back. As usual it is always helpful !

5/28/14       #6: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
B.H. Davis Member

Gary,

Precisely which blade gave you the problem and what was the old one that is problem free?

Tooth type, spacing, blade material etc.

Thanks,
BH

5/28/14       #7: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
gary

Blade that was giving me trouble is a "Lennox Tri Master Carbide Tipped" It has 3 small teeth followed by 2 bigger ones. Lots of money down the drain. It is the 2nd carbide tipped blade ( 2 out of 2) that has failed to live up to expectations. The blade I am using now is a " Lennox Woodmaster" . Both use .045 thick steel bands x 1-1/4" wide.

5/29/14       #8: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
Correy Smith

huh, I use the 1" Lenoxx woodmaster Carbide 1.3tpi and the 2tpi. Both cut well. I use about three a year. They will last several thousand feet for general ripping and a couple thousand feet for resawing with quality cuts. You can resaw within .01 resawing veneer with the 1.3 in material 6" and thicker.
They are a good value. I source mine at Industrial Blade in CA.
I have had bad blades in the past. Not from Industrial but from others. Bad welds usually will cause poor performance. I like the 1.3 I leave it on for most all my cutting. I just in the past year started using the 2tpi for joinery.

5/29/14       #9: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
B.H. Davis Member

We use the Woodmaster 1" carbon steel 3/4" spacing hook tooth blade. We've also used the same blade design in the bi-metal version which is a good compromise between steel and carbide.

We stayed with the carbon steel blade though because of the 18" wheels on our band saw. Those smaller wheels tend to stress the metal over time on 1" and wider blades. As such we get some stress crack fracturing. Because of this we tend to get just as much life out of the less expensive carbon steel blades.

A key to long life is to de-tension the blade when not in use. By doing this we typically get 6 to 8 hours of run time out of the blades over a several month time frame (the saw is obviously not used every day). We have about equal incidents of having to change blades out due to dullness as vs. fracturing.

BH Davis

5/29/14       #10: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
Correy Smith

Good point on detuning the saw on smaller diameter wheels. I do on mine. It's just a MM16. BUt the neweer lennox WMCT ( for the past several years) has redesigned the band and can run on wheels as small as 16" without forming stress cracks in the gullets.
I know of many guys that run them on bigger saws and do not detention them until replacing.
I had broken a couple of them. Green wood was the culprit once. another a poor weld, and the other was leaving the band under tension 24/7.
There some guys on the Minimax Owner Group that run there bands probably as infrequent as BH and get years from the WMCT.
When I did run the bi metal blades I tended to use the 1.25" because you can get them resharpened easily . It's the same width as sawyers use on small band mills. They usually do not like sharpening narrower bands because they have to align the whole set-up for a few blades.
I spend about 20% less bands with 1 carbide instead of 8 bi metal. I was ordering three bi metals at once so my shipping was reduce by about 60%. Down time from swapping out bands, tracking etc. was reduced by about 600%
The 1.3T you can really push some material thru in a short amount of time.

BH, where do your bands break most often, gullet or weld?

5/29/14       #11: Re-Saw blade wondering ...
B.H. Davis Member

Corey,

We'll get multiple stress cracks coming in randomly from the back edge. I can't remember the last time we had a weld break or one that came from the gullet.

BH Davis


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