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I recently bought my first jointer, a ridgid 6-1/8" from home depot on line. I've set it up precisely but I'm getting a chamfer from the leading edge onward down the length of each piece. The knives move a flat edge 1/8" when rotated by hand so I know they are about as close to perfectly level with the out feed table. If I apply forward and downward pressure to the leading edge of the stock once its on the out feed table the chamfer occurs and gets progressively worse, that is to say, that it doesn't gradually creep further toward the trailing edge of the stock, the more passes I make, its doing the opposite. I'm at my whits end with it and no matter what technique I use, I cant get consistent, accurate cuts. To add insult to injury, If I apply pressure to the stock on the in feed table only, although the stock lifts on the out feed table, cuts are more often right down the piece but almost always either convex or concave. Go figure... I'd value any tips on this guys because Im about ready to throw this thing out.
First, I'm unsure of your meaning of the term 'chamfer'. To me, a chamfer is a beveled edge along the 90 degree corner of S4S stock. Perhaps you mean snipe or taper - the defects most often seen in jointer problems.
First, check to see if your tables are parallel to each other - across the width and along their length. This is sometime called co-planar. This requires a good straight edge. If the tables are not right, no amount of monkeying will make good stock.
The 1/8" movement of a straight edge on the outfeed table is bit much. This can help you see that the knives are set correctly to each other and to the outfeed table, but will not give straight stock. Holding the straight edge tightly to the outfeed table, you should just get a hair's movement. This tells you that the knives are at the exact height of the table. Raise the outfeed.
Another thing to check is technique. I teach jointing with almost no down pressure at all on the infeed table - let the wood bow if it is bowed. Just feed it to the outfeed and hold it down to the table. Otherwise, you deflect the piece, cut it, and then it springs back to its original shape.
Also, you should do a search on this site for Knowledge Base articles on this. You are not the first....
Yes it sounds like you are using incorrect terminology.
If your infeed table lines up with the out feed, then I think the problem is your feeding method. '
If you have the crown down, then allow the lumber to rock back and fourth, you will never get it straight. It sounds like you may have the crown down, using lots of pressure on the front end to start, then rocking back with pressure in the middle after starting.
You need to keep your downward pressure constant while you traverse if the crown is down.
If your knives are not razor sharp, a jointer will not perform perfectly. A low end jointer may have alignment issues, warped tables and fences. Buying a jointer may warrant getting a decent straight edge and feeler gauges, dial indicator helps too. Check it all out before the return period is over.
Looks like I figured it out. The blades being set to migrate a straight edge even just 1/8" when turned was enough to cause the problem.
AND yup, I did in fact mean Taper.
I adjusted the knives to EXACTLY level with the outfeed table and WOW. What a difference. I'm finding it incredibly easy to get a perfect edge on even the most difficult stock.