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12" Jointer/Taiwan

1/1/17       
David Member

I'm looking to purchase a 12" jointer. I'm looking at used equipment but also would consider a new Taiwanese machine if I felt confident about it. I have a Bridgewood mortiser from around 2005 and if I could get an imported jointer of that quality I'd be fine with that. I have that mortiser and a Jet 6x89 belt sander, but other than that I've bought new Powermatic and older American made machines. Any thoughts on experience with the various imported jointers available out there? thanks--

1/1/17       #2: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
rich c.

Hard to say what machinery is now made in Taiwan or China. Many companies have plants in both countries, and then paint them many colors and badge them to many brands. Geetech is an example.

Geetech

1/2/17       #4: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
ccting Member

I hv a jointer just to joint wood edgenthat is around 1" - 2". A portion is used for 45degree joint and the rest is for 90degree joint. 16" is just nice not too narrow and not too wide.

1/2/17       #5: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
ccting Member

And it lasts about two months even though i plane about 50x7' daily. Ot help save lots of time and effort. 12" is just too narrow and u need to sharpen more frequently and toubleshoot the installation

1/3/17       #6: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
ccting

In my opinion, you shall buy
a) Rough jointer which has large diameter that can cut 3-9mm per pass.

b) Jointer surface that will not bend. A lot jointer plate will bend as the time pass. As the result, the jointer produces bend wood then straight line

c) Long jointer surface, about 5-7 feet is preferred if your stock is 7-9 feet long.

d) 5 HP is sufficient for jointing edge. I am changing the HP to 10 HP for joint the surface of 8".

1/3/17       #7: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
Bill

There are so many old american machines on the market that buying a Taiwanese probably does not make sense.

What are you going to do with it?

1/3/17       #8: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
David Member

Well, that's the thing, there are great old American machines available cheap, I know. However, most are 3 phase, and I don't have 3 phase. I'm not sure about the converters. The other thing is, right now I have nice Powermatic 8" with a Shelix head, and a spiral head is a definite must for me. And I'm not a gear head, I'd rather work wood that rebuild a tool. I make high end furniture and collectible cabinets professionally, not a lot of hours on the machines compared to a cabinet shop, but pretty much all figured and curly material.

Any thoughts on phase converters? If I can get an old American machine for 1500 and another 1000 for a Byrd head, and maybe 300 for a converter, I guess it's more or less the same thing.

1/3/17       #9: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
B.H. Davis Member

There are two type of phase converters, static an rotary.

A commercially built rotary converter will be a lot more expensive than $300. The motor alone could account for more than that in the purchase price. However this is the best type of converter.

Static converters will work but will provide the motor with only 2/3 of the required electrical current so the motor will only deliver 2/3 of the rated output power. This reduction in power may or may not be an issue.

Over the years I've owned both types and rotary converters are definitely my first choice. However I had a 7.5 hp 16" Original Saw radial arm saw once that ran more than adequately for my purposes on a static converter. I also had a 15 hp old Timesaver that ran quite successfully on a 10hp rotary converter. That sander is still in the shop today running on 3-phase power from the street.

BH Davis

1/4/17       #10: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
woodworker

My 16" is initially 3 phrase... then i change it to single phrase... which comes with capacitor, overhead electronic components.. and i need to replace them almost every 3 weeks. Single phrase machine is not reliable... ! Too hot.

1/4/17       #11: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
woodworker

If you are going to joint edges of wood then it is better to get a sliding table with jointing circular saw blade. 5 HP is sufficient and much more cost effective. Jointer weights more than 1 Tan.. and could be very expensive. And it is a very dangerous machine and i cut my fingers.

1/4/17       #12: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
rich c.

Woodworker, if you need to replace electronics every three weeks, it's not the issue of single or three phase. There is something else wrong. I suggest you contact a local motor shop.

1/5/17       #13: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
Tom Gardiner

Check out Phase Perfect electronic phase converters. I don't have one but did the research when considered moving shop. Very high efficiency and good reviews from machinists on CNC zone. Purchasing one would open up your options on further machine purchases.

1/7/17       #14: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
David R Sochar

Regarding 'woodworkers' remarks, all machinery will harm you if not used properly. He is the reason he cut his fingers, not the joiner.

Many woodworkers, mostly self taught, have not worked with a joiner and find alternate ways that "work good enough". These alternate ways can be dangerous, inefficient and produce lower quality work. A woodworker that has saddled himself with such a limiting view may never see the value of a foundation machine like a rock solid joiner.

Good equipment is a true joy to use, and helps you do better work.

1/11/17       #15: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
Allan

We recently restored an old 12" Northfield jointer from the 1930's with it's original motor. Both have Babbitt bearings. Needed machine shop work to convert the flat belt pulley, which is part of the cutterhead, to a groove pulley. Motor required some additional work. Maybe $750 for all of it, including new belts and pulleys.
The machine has only 2 blades and, according to Northfield runs only at 3000 rpm. This means we cut slowly. That said, this is over 1000 lbs of machine and motor. We surface 10-12" wide 8/4 boards everyday and these planks are heavy. The jointer tables don't budge.

For us, the restoration effort was worth it. If a nice finish were critical we'd go to a Taiwanese machine. However, all we're doing is getting the slabs flat and taking them a helical head planer.

To sum up, there's nothing wrong with the better Taiwanese made 12" jointers (Powermatic, Jet, Grizzly, etc). The choice depends upon what you need to do,

4/25/17       #16: 12" Jointer/Taiwan ...
Woodworker Member

I bought a Taiwan 32" thickness Planer.

a) The build up is very solid
b) but, the design is not ergonomic

China made planer is more ergonomic, but build up is very fragile. I got Japanese jointer, and they are still perfect after more than 30 years use. The jointing plate are still perfectly flat. Many jointer will bend after a few years, and you need to do modification.


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