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A client sent this photo for cabinet door style and I'm curious if there's tooling for a cope and stick with this bead depth or if the bead is applied/ parts 45'ed/ or notched. We've done a bunch of beaded face frames but this for some reason seems a bit different. Maybe I'm overthinking...
Clarification- Drawer Fronts...
Mitered is obviously the easiest way to go.
Or, more time consuming - but you can run all your beading on one side of solid frame stock, notch the styles on a band saw using a fence for precise notching and miters, then cut the rail bead miters on your chop saw. Finally - run a slot in the frames for your panel. Then use 3/8" x 2" or 10mm x 45mm dowels to complete the assembly for attaching the frames together.
This process sounds more complicated than it sounds, but I have more confidence this way than with the mitered. Setting up a fence with stops on your bandsaw makes the notching a snap.
Applying the bead afterward is not the best as you don't really have much gluing surface. You can't glue onto the panel as that has to float separate from the frame, and there won't be much edge on the frame to work with. 23mm micro pins with a small bead of glue would work okay though (I suppose).
Good luck - let us know how you make out.
Haunched Cope and stick will do the trick
Second image -
Leo, VERY nice!
Great work Leo. Thanks for the replies all. I'll post a pic if I get the job. May make some with Leo's method for fun.
I checked and keystonewood.com has that style. The KBD10 door or KBD10df drawer front . Suppose others have it also.
We build them like Leo, but run the bead so that it extends over the panel front instead of full depth groove on the back side.
JR and Leo, how are you guys notching/mitering the bead on the door style?
We have a Morso hauncher with a shop made zero clearance insert that fits into the groove to keep it from blowing out. I just wanted the door backs to look like a shaker joint with no miter showing.
Your style works for a flat panel, but if you needed to put a raised panel in there you'd need a pretty long tongue. I do mine that way because it's easier. I want a 1/2" tenon on my rail, so that is what I make the slot to. My first job with is was a raised panel, so I needed the back to be equal with the front.
I just put the blade at a 45 and make the initial cut. Then I move the board back and forth and pushing it forward into the blade until everything is cut flat.
I've also done it with a single straight cut and then a single miter cut. But the first way is more accurate as you only need the one setup.