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Good buy on a hand held stitcher?

8/1/14       
Mark  Member

I'm in the market for a hand held stitcher; the only one I have experience with is a Kuper(sp?) which worked pretty well but was a little pricey. Anyone have recommendations on other makes?

8/3/14       #2: Good buy on a hand held stitcher? ...
Charles Wright  Member

Website: http://www.northcreekwoodworks.com

Not exactly what you are requesting, but I have a Dennis veneer tape machine. It's in great shape. I bought it to 'splice' resinous woods like rosewood that we could not splice on our edge glue machines, but figured out how to do it before we really used the tape machine. Just a thought...

8/12/14       #3: Good buy on a hand held stitcher? ...
Kevin Jenness

I have a handheld veneer stitcher from Vacuum Pressing Systems that has worked well for me. I think it is made by Pollma. I have been able to get spare parts from Vacupress. No doubt a stationary stitcher or glue splicer would be preferable for production, but a handheld unit saves considerable time over taping with well behaved flat veneer.

8/14/14       #4: Good buy on a hand held stitcher? ...
Dave L

How does a stitched seam compare to a taped seam? How do you clean it off, or do you stitch the back side? How thick is the applied stitching?

I saw one video where the guy stitched the back side and then paper taped the top side (he left the the stitching on the back side).

...It looks like you can stitch either side, but that back side stitching can telegraph and top side stitching can leave residue in the pores (paper can to, which is why I wet and peel it off).

Knowledge Base article

8/15/14       #5: Good buy on a hand held stitcher? ...
Kevin Jenness

The stitched joints from my unit are not as strong as taped joints, but adequate with careful handling and well behaved (flat) veneer. I find it helps to run a few temporary strips of blue tape across the joint before flipping the leaves over and stitching, but it's not absolutely necessary. The stitches have enough body that they can leave a slight dent in the veneer. I will usually leave the stitch in the glueline on the back of a panel to save time removing it , and I haven't had telegraphing problems. I usually stitch the face of the panel front and remove the stitch by scraping. I may steam the seam to raise the dent prior to sanding. I haven't had an issue with hot melt in the pores. I don't know why anyone would stitch one side and then tape the other.

Overall the stitcher has been a timesaver for the size of projects I have done. If I were specializing in veneer work I would probably be looking at a splicer, as I assume it would make a stronger joint with less cleanup. I have done some edge gluing of veneer by taping the seam, folding it back and inserting yellow glue, then closing the seam and removing the tape when cured. It is a good system though a bit slower than stitching. All methods require careful thorough sanding to remove evidence of the seaming process. I hope someone with more experience than I will weigh in on the subject.


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