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veneer over solid wood6/15
I am planning on making a demi-lune table, Main wood will be African mahogany. The table top is to be 36" radius. I am thinking of veneering, eucalyptus burl to the inside faces of the top (the sides that show when table is flipped open).
I think if you look at historical methods of construction, you will see that solid woods were used for the core, but that the veneers were cross banded. That is, the tops are a 5-ply assembly. The core stock solids should be quarter sawn, and from a stable species to help reduce cross grain movement. Cross bands would be 90 degrees to that, then your faces.
Even with cross banding, it is best to have both faces be similar in grain direction and species, though it is not uncommon to see exceptions to this in the historical record. See Wallace Nuttig's Furniture Treasury for examples, but you will have to look further for details on the construction.
Thanks David. I was hoping not to have to veneer both sides but I think to be safe that is what I will do. I am presuming a good piece of Baltic birch, 10 ply, would be a good substrate and would hold screws well.
If you are worried about the screws holding just edge the baltic core with an inch of so of solid then veneer over that. Would recommend a two ply of veneer over the baltic or at least make sure the grain on your veneer runs opposite the top layer of baltic.