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Veneer moving

10/14/15       
Jake Member

We built and installed a vanity in a powder room about a year ago with 10 mill paper backed veneer over a MFD core. The contact cement was 3M Fastbond 30 NF. The top coat was Valspar conversion varnish.This client does not feel that water is an issue as the vanity is hardly used and the photo does not show it but the slab doors below are showing the same kind of damage. Can this be sanded and retopcoated? If i need to remake this what should we be using as an adhesive?


View higher quality, full size image (2448 X 3264)


View higher quality, full size image (2448 X 3264)


View higher quality, full size image (2448 X 3264)

10/14/15       #2: Veneer moving ...
David

Jake, it is difficult to determine what exactly has caused the veneer to bubble like that. Contact cement is an adhesive that stays flexible even after drying allowing the veneer to "creep". In veneer work most of the time you need a rigid glue line which is produced by using a urea formaldehyde glue. I have heard of contact cement being released by solvent-based finishes and bubbling. To use any other glue besides contact cement you are going to need some kind of a press, like a vacuum press. If you don't have a press you can use contact cement with man-made veneers that are on a phenolic backer which is the same backer used on plastic laminates. If you want to do more veneer work in the future I would definitely consider getting a vacuum press. Then you can use a urea formaldehyde glue like Uni bond, which is highly water and heat resistant and produces a rigid glue line. You can check out the company vacuum pressing systems online. They will have everything you need to get started. Save the contact cement for the plastic laminate.

10/14/15       #3: Veneer moving ...
Craig

Jake, it does look like the veneer is moving and that is likely caused by the flexible contact cement. Using another glue would solve that problem if it's actually the culprit. I wouldn't recommend Unibond though as their newest 'green' formulation doesn't work as well as the old stuff. Good alternatives would be Pro Glue UF, Gorilla Glue Poly and Titebond 1. Any of those would be fine in a vanity with CV on top. All would pretty much require a vacuum bag or lots of clamps to do a job like this.

If you're not setup for vacuum bagging you could always outsource the pressing to a larger firm and do the assembly yourself. I've done this in the past by having veneer pressed on 1/4" mdf then bent that to shape in the shop.

I can't see how you'll fix this without tearing it out and starting over.

10/14/15       #4: Veneer moving ...
rich c.

I don't like paper backing, too many failures seen. I would never use contact cement, made that mistake at the beginning when Constantine sold that process. MDF also moves a lot, especially in a bathroom. I would never want to build a bathroom vanity with a veneer top surface, especially with that style sink. In my house, water would be on the top with every use! Unless the towel bar is over the sink, no way to keep water completely off it. I'd also suggest that an open grain finish is not the way to go. I'd use a filler and a clear coat that has more build on the next one. Looks like this one is going to cost you, sorry for you.

10/19/15       #5: Veneer moving ...
Jake Member

Thanks for the info everybody. Its great to be able to have a site to go to and get such great feedback.

11/5/15       #6: Veneer moving ...
Rich

Looks like the veneer is coming away from the paper back. When you have de lams between the paper backed veneer and the contact cement it tends to have a bubble effect with smooth outside edges. When the veneer releases from the actual paper it tends to look like what you have in your pics.Kind of a ragged edge.


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