Minimal experience applying veneers. Constructing a hood enclosure with three concave sides. I already have the skeleton assembled and ready for substrate and cherry veneer.
Our most often used product for substrate on curved surfaces is two layers of 3/8" wiggle wood. I'm not sure if this is the best option. I am also not sure what adhesive would be best and would paper backed or wood veneer be the most appropriate.

I don't have access to a bag and the last time I did a hip (not curved) hood I used titebond applied to both veneer and substare and let dry and then iron on. Ironing on a concave surface may prove problematic.
Looking for some suggestions. Thank youi.

Carmine !
A - Flexform ply is a good bet ( noit to say best !!) if it suit your need & makes the form you wish, it's a good substrate for any veneer !
Now, you'll need a bag, like it or not !!
Again, other alternative may be suggested, but....vacuum bagging is a safer & your sure bet !
Time is money !!....why pros use bag, at the end, you risking much more wasting time !!....not to say $$
Also, if you can, go with a direct veneer, mean, no paper backed and use a veneer softener solution ( search the web, there's commercial ones and DIY recipes !).
All the best !

I have used Contact Adhesive on veneers similar to what you are describing. I have a picture of such a hood on my web site. That hood was done in 2006, I was in the home last year changing cabinets over a new refer and no problems.

I think one layer of bendable plywood would be enough. I would use a 20 mil backed veneer. I would do a really good job filling any voids with Bondo. You want that surface perfectly smooth. Any imperfections will telegraph through the veneer.

I would apply the side veneers first so my seams would be facing to the side.

Finally, I use only flammable Contact Adhesive and I apply it thoroughly.

Although you can get away with contact cement over time it is going to bite you eventually. If you are going to do curved work a vacuum press is the most flexible approach.

A vacuum bag lasts a long time as does a pump. Keep an eye on auctions for future work.

You might also consider subbing work like this out. You know your cost and you know you are going to make money in the end.

A range hood is a difficult environment for wood. I would want the most bulletproof approach. If it has an issue in a year or two it could cost more then a vacuum pump and bags cost to fix it.

Good Luck.

I agree that contact cement is going to bite you in the long run. I have seen it dry out and fail many times over the years.

If you have a vacuum pump then you can make your own bag rather inexpensively. McMaster-Carr and others sell heavy clear vinyl by the yard. Quite frankly though you can even pull it off with a large clear 3 mil trash bag and some polyethylene tubing.

If you don't have a vacuum pump you can even do a small project like this with a very inexpensive air driven venturi vacuum head.

BH Davis