Veneer

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Veneering a bullnose

11/17/15       
Ted Member

I use my vac bags for laminating curved panels and have little to no experience with applying veneer. But I need to make a new shelf for some existing teak furniture as a favor to a customer. I want the 3/4" MDF shelf to have a bullnosed edge in front and my plan is to apply contact cement to the top of the shelf and the bullnosed edge. Then apply the veneer to the top with about 2 or 3" of veneer hanging over the front edge, put the shelf in the bag on some spacers that will hold it about an inch above the platen and press it. Once it is pressed I will turn the shelf over, apply some more cement to the bottom and the veneer flap and re-press. Does this sound like a reasonable approach? And by the way, the shelf will be low enough that the bare MDF on the underside won't be noticed.

11/18/15       #2: Veneering a bullnose ...
Max Neu

For something like that,I would use Heat lock glue.

11/18/15       #3: Veneering a bullnose ...
John Van Brussel

Website: http://www.veneersystems.com

Rule of thumb when veneering " what you do to one side of your panel you need to repeat on the other side." If you don't the shelf will warp or cup. Keep in mind if you use a PVA glue let it dry and reactivate it with heat you will weaken the bond by 50% or more.

11/18/15       #4: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Booth Member

Max,
I'm not familiar with heat lock glue. I'll have to read up on it but keep in mind what John had to say about re-heating it.

11/18/15       #5: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Booth Member

John,
I know what you say is true when regarding sheets of plywood I have custom ordered but I didn't think about that rule in this instance on a smaller shelf. Might have been to my peril. I have some maple veneer lying around from a previous instance that could do the trick on the unseen side. What about my idea for the bullnose, do you have experience with something like that?

11/18/15       #6: Veneering a bullnose ...
Geoff

Do NOT use contact adhesive. In my opinion, the best adhesive for this is Unibond 800. Like John said you must veneer both side of the panel.

11/19/15       #7: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Booth Member

Well I can see that the next thing I need to do is investigate all of my glue options. What I use for my curved panels is regular Tite Bond II which I apply using a Klebo spreader I bought from VacuPress about ten years ago. The Klebo for my purposes can't be beat. But veneer is a different animal. I went to Tite Bond mainly for the ease of clean up but I find that it works well too for all types of plywood and MDF glue ups.

Thank all of you for your comments. My original question still hasn't been answered but plenty of other issues have arisen that could cause problems which I would like to avoid. If you have more possible bad outcomes and ways to avoid them I would like to hear them before I get started.

11/19/15       #8: Veneering a bullnose ...
John Van Brussel

Website: http://www.veneersystems.com

Most bull noses I see are done separately and then glued and mechanically fastened to the shelf.You can do this in a vacuum press but you need to raise the piece so the bag gets the veneer pressed on to the bottom edges of the bull nose.

11/19/15       #9: Veneering a bullnose ...
Jared

I've done what you're trying to do, but it was awhile ago. If I recall, I used some kind of powdered plastic resin glue or epoxy. After putting the parts in the bag, I drew out a portion of the air, then used a hard roller to help the veneer make the corner. Draw out more air, more rolling, lather rinse repeat. Veneer softener is your friend.

11/19/15       #10: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Member

John,
I would like to have the veneer on the bullnose match that of the shelf so I'm going to try doing it all at once. But I still have the bullnose from the existing, too shallow shelf. If the job doesn't go right and the veneer on the bullnose bubbles or is otherwise ruined I'll rip the one off the old shelf and attach it on the new shelf. Also, as I mentioned in the initial post I plan on placing the shelf in the bag on spacers so that the bag will crawl under the shelf in the gap. This may be the only time I ever do want that crawl-under to happen.

11/19/15       #11: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Member

Jared,
I haven't used veneer softener previously. What I have is 10 mil veneer on paper. I would imagine that the softener is applied to the veneer side and not to the paper? Otherwise I can see the upside to stopping and rolling as the bag evacuates. Thanks for that tip.

11/19/15       #12: Veneering a bullnose ...
Jared

Ted, I've not used much paperback veneer so I can't attest to how it will behave with softener. My gut says the paper might inhibit the elasticity that would otherwise result, but maybe not to the point that it would be a hindrance to you. Raw veneer can be coaxed around compound curves with enough determination. I think my application was veneering the radiused edge of a round table. You've got a curve in only one direction, so it should be doable.

11/19/15       #13: Veneering a bullnose ...
Ted Member

Jared,
I would like to have seen what you did while it was happening. I do some compound curve stuff also but with plywood. It isn't easy.

11/25/15       #14: Veneering a bullnose ...
Tom Gardiner

By my reading of this, the bullnose wrap is not a compound curve. It is likely that the grain is running with the bullnose edge so the wrap with paper backed veneer should be relatively simple. Paper back is normally tenderized making it very pliable an not prone to stretching. Useless for compound curves but excellent for what you intend.
Try a dry run with veneer sized to wrap over the bullnose and cover the top of the shelf. Use a sheet of 6mil vapor barrier between the veneer and bag to reduce friction. Have the shelf raised up 1" or more. Tape the veneer in place and draw down the vacuum while massaging the bag into a tight fit around the curve.
It would help to have the shelf over length because the veneer will fracture as it gets pressed over the edges.
If this works the do the same with glue.


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