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Gluing Western Red Cedar11/7
Does any one know why my door panels won't hold? I'm used TiteBond Supreme wood glue on the strips for the panels first and appr. half of the joints break apart after drying up to 12 hours! I have been regluing them with TiteBond Original wood glue and they have been holding so far.
Just a thought, but it might help you might try glue sizing because of the high porosity of cedar. Water your glue down a bit, brush on, let dry, then glue normally.
What's the temperature of the shop, the wood and the glue? Is there any chance the glue has been frozen?
Every time I bought ceadar it was wet. I used to make a lot of outdoor kitchens with it. I used poly glue (gorilla glue) and it worked a lot better for me than PVA glue. I was making raised panel doors and never had a failure that I know of (those jobs were all 3 to 4 years ago).
I hate using poly glue, but it works great on that wet porous wood.
WRC is an easy wood to glue, so something is seriously wrong.
First, TB Supreme is not the best adhesive. That adhesive is designed for ring porous woods like oak. If you want to use TB, then TB II is your best bet.
If I could see the broken joint, the appearance would likely give us the perfect diagnosis of what is going wrong. Without that info, I will guess that the adhesive has not cured within 12 hours and the reason is (besides being the wrong adhesive) is that the wood is wetter than 12% MC. The TB family is basically designed for under 12% MC (give or take). With the water in the wood, the adhesive cannot cure as quickly as needed and so it does not cure at all.
A third option is that the wood is so dry that the liquid in the adhesive is absorbed before you get the pressure on the joint. This would be a starved joint.
A fourth option is that you have too much pressure so you are squeezing out all the adhesive and so there is none left in the joint to do the work.
We're very familiar with titebond problems with WRC. Our Franklin rep recommended wiping with acetone first, but we switched long ago to using a PU called Structan, which works well.
Gorilla glue has gotten a bad rap because it's not good for all settings and I believe it is used wrongly in many cases. I've been useing Gorilla Glue for years building full exposure wood gates and doors (200 + gates) -- clear/dry doug. fir and mahogany/african mahogany-- also a lot of arches and outdoor structures out of redwood and cedar. I use a simple doweling techique with butt joints as well as a lot of edge glueing for raised panels and the like (with biscuits) --- all with Gorilla glue)--- I have never had a gate frame come apart and only once or twice have I seen a panel glue joint crack --- I make it a point of inspecting my old work whenever possible so I see my work years later.
My experience with wood glue is mutual. It hasn't worked for me and the rare times where it did didn't last very long. Maybe try some spray glue? Abatix.com has all kinds of glues and adhesives you can try. Here's a link to one: