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Milling wood for epoxy adhesives2/8
Personally, the question is professional in that, that is how I want to solve all problems. But, I can't ever remember reading any advice about how to change joint design to switch from typical woodworking glues to epoxy.
I am doing a volunteer project for a local church that happens to have a gymnasium. Most sports change rooms have a shelf that is nominally 6 foot off the ground, and under the shelf are partitions every 20 inches or so, and 2 coathooks per partition. That is what I'm building.
The partitions are truncated right isoceles triangles. They fit into stopped dados in 3/4 inch cabinet plywood.
I am placing 24 feet of shelves in a space shaped like a U. The two corners are not square, the walls are not flat, and the base of the U has a protusion where the drywall people are trying to make an 7x7 (approximately) steel post fit flush into a wall. It is readily apparent, that the drywall covering this post sticks out far further than any other location on the wall.
It it obvious I am going to be making shims to fit the L shaped shelf to the wall. And using epoxy instead of regular woodworking glue will give me some forgiveness in making the shelf on site.
The sides of the dado joints should have 1 mm or less room. I am wondering about the bottom of the dado. Should a person take a triangular file, and make nominally 1mm wide triangular grooves in the base of the piece fitting into the dado, to give enough glue thickness to work properly? I am thinking a 1mm wide groove every 5mm.
I guess I will just go with the best I can think of. I will make a longitudinal cut down the center that is nominally 1mm deep, and I'll make triangular grooves perpendicular to that groove. I am going to coat the joint with unthickened epoxy before adding silica to thicken the epoxy. Adding the grooves should keep the joint from starving for epoxy.
And hopefully, if 9 athletes decided to have chinup contests at the same time, the shelf is strong enough.