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Curved glazing stops7/30
Can we discuss productively making multiples of a 1/2" x 3/4" glazing stop? I need to make 30+ with a 35" radius and 50 with 5-1/2" radius. Now I've set up a router on a trammel and am adjusting the 1x12 stock forward with each pass. I end up finessing it at the spindle sander. I've tried it on a shaper pattern( too much blowout and hard to clamp) bandsaw (I've never been a good band sawyer). Hints?
Give some thought to making a 2 part curved form and laminating 1/8 or 1/4"" pieces to get your 1/2"or 3/4". Then cleaning them up and doing your edge work on the router table if needed using push blocks for safety.
You don't state the chord length of the stops, and that affects how I would go about it.
Getting several parts out of one width of stock is fine, but you loose the radius if you stay concentric, and cut them out one after another without correcting the radius. So you end up making 3 cuts for each part.
If you saw the inside edge, then clean it up quickly with a spiral router bit on a table or a purpose made rotating disc of the proper diameter, then you can make a bunch of those cuts on one edge, clean the cut, then use a curved fence on the bandsaw and cut out the outer radius. This can then be cleaned up with a drum/spindle sander and that same curved fence, feeding the parts thru like a curved drum sander.
One thing I'd do right off the bat is doubles or triples - make them 1" + tall, or 1-5/8" so you can saw and clean far less parts (1/2 or 1/3), then stand them on their back on the bandsaw and saw them out for thickness, then thru a sander or planer (?) or gang up with a R/O sander to clean.
No matter what, avoiding short grain helps you make them more efficiently and helps the guy that has to set them.
The longer radii are 34"
The longer chord length is 34" the shorter is about 4". Correction the shorter radius is 2.5"
The 2 1/2" radius stops can be cut out of an 8" square block of wood with a hole saw. Secure it to the drill press table with screws on the inner and outer waste area.
Once secured cut the outside radius of the parts first with the larger hole saw and then the inside radius with the 5" hole saw. Some fine tuning of part width on the edge sander may be required due to the lack of precise sizing on the outside of the curve.
With a 4" chord you should comfortably get 2 stops per circle. If you follow the advice above and use thicker wood you can double or triple the yield per ring.
I say back to the bandsaw. You don't say what the profile is, but with an extension table on your band saw and a swing arm you can whip those out very quick then dress them on the edge sander. If profiled, swing arm the inside radius, profile, then cut it free.
I have never been fond of bandsawing to finish the inside of glass beads. We normally use the same template for the curved door or window rail to shape the inside of the bead. No problem with blowout or chatter.
We can also take the bead right off the curve rail then cut it away with a 6mm router bit. This requires some specialized tooling and not worth it unless doing a lot of curve work.
The laminated bead also works in some cases. We use this method sometimes for one off large flat arches. The glass pocket of the rail can be used as a form, mask it off to protect from glue and just clamp in whatever thickness of strip makes the bend. All this before the door or window is assembled to allow for plenty of tail.
I do not like short grain on the bead or rail and will finger joint in segments to avoid this.