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Filling cracks on exterior door --  0 -- 
10/2
I have a front exterior door that was built in 1925- Pine. There are many cracks in the wood, not completely through, mostly surface. I want to paint the door, but I must fill the cracks first. I planned on using West Epoxy (as I have it in the house), knowing that it can withstand the weather and has some flexibility. HOWEVER...will it accept paint? I will be sanding it smooth, so it will have a 'bite' from the sanding. OR...any other suggestions
10/3 #2: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
Website: petesfloors.wordpress.com
Epoxy that is cured will accept paint.
10/3 #3: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
Pick up some West System silica thickener to make the epoxy into more of a putty like filler.
West System Collodial Silica
10/3 #4: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
Since you will be painting over, it won't matter, but I don't think any of the clear epoxy will hold up in Sunlight.
Rather than West, I like Smith CPES for the first application. Then to fill the checks, rather than silica, a fairing compound is a lot easier to sand.
Abatron also makes a system for this that one of my restoration neighbors likes.
10/3 #5: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
AlanS - You mentioned "epoxy" and "flexibility" in the same sentence.
I would characterize epoxy as a rigid glue line, and as a filler it is also less than flexible.
All in all, your plan is sound, but I would add that the door may be likely to crack again in the future. Do use the thickening agents to help fill the areas.
10/3 #6: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
Website: http://rangate.com
Hi Alan,
The 'Knot Filler' we carry at Rangate is probably the right choice for you. You heat the material up, and apply it into the void, then chisel off the remainder for a flush look. It was designed for outdoor window/door use, so it is a good fit to your purposes. The material will accept painting or staining afterwards as well. We have plenty of videos of it in action if you're curious.
The repairs will be done in just a minute or two, whereas epoxy is a much more involved and lengthy process.
I would recommend using a filler from our "medium" temperature range which will let you hand-sand it afterward repairing all the cracks (I'd recommend the highest melting temp if you plan on wide belt sanding).
You can feel free to message me if you have more questions.
Best,
Alex
Knot Filler information
10/4 #7: Filling cracks on exterior door ...
I have worked on old wood repaired with epoxy, caulking, putty, white lead, and whatever.
Over time, when the wood moves, the epoxy stays put. It will often stick to one side of a crack. If the entire surface is covered with epoxy, water collects between the wood and the epoxy. Hello sheets of rot. Look at any 20 year old epoxy repair job.
When repairing old houses, doing work that can not be reversed makes the next repair impossible. Use a wood filler that can be repaired and replaced.
For slight checking in a pine door, I use Sarco Type M glazing compound. It's designed to stick to wood, and will hold paint.
Finally, removing all traces of wood checks and imperfections in a door by covering it with epoxy makes the door look like it's made out of plastic. In fact, it will be.
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