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Jointing on the Shaper --  0 -- 
11/1
I need to make a lot of 3-1/2" X 36" X 3/4" out of poplar.
I am thinking of mounting a piece of flat 10" X 96" X 1/2" aluminum to my shaper table to be able to power feed the poplar to straighten it. I would feed with concave edge next to fence and since each end of the board would be in constant contact with the fence ( holding it in position) it would seem to be able to straighten the board.
Any thoughts ?
11/1 #2: Jointing on the Shaper ...
i do this all of the time with a spiral head in the shaper and an offset fence. used to use a clamp-on straightedge, now i use the Aigner digital, adjustable offset fence. it's a good way to get a terrific finish and a consistent width (... if you don't have a moulder).
---dz
11/1 #3: Jointing on the Shaper ...
If you need a lot, get a straight line rip to get the one good edge.
11/1 #4: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Yup, a great and safe way to do this. Remember if you're using a shear cut rebate block for this, it will leave a slightly convex surface on your edges. Not sure if that would matter for what you're doing or not.
11/2 #5: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Jointing short pieces on the shaper should work well.
1/2" x 10" x 96" aluminum is not the best choice. You are looking for stiffness in two planes. As a fence and in bending across the shaper table. Your 1/2" piece will probably sag. You would be better off to simply joint a piece of hardwood like maple and use that as the fence. Glue a thicker piece to it outside the powerfeed to make it stiff in bending. Definitely wax it.
11/2 #6: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Stiff shop made fence 6 ft long
1/16 laminate on out feed end with cutter adjusted to outfeed end.
Power feeder . Production edge jointing all day long.
11/2 #7: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Thanks Adam; I was re-thinking the aluminum as well. I was considering 3/4 baltic ply but I like your maple idea better !
I just happen to have some.
11/2 #8: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Gary,
You are welcome. In all of my years I've never jointed parts on the shaper. We've sized a million feet of stuff but never jointed.
Thank you for that idea.
11/2 #9: Jointing on the Shaper ...
If you need rigidity, make the fence a box section, not a single board.
11/3 #10: Jointing on the Shaper ...
make a plywood sled whatever length you need. Mark a straight line underneath and attach a strip sized to engage the miter slot in the shaper table. Cover the top with durable coarse sandpaper roll. Center the feeder on the spindle. The pressure of the feeder will keep the piece from moving, clamping or fence is not needed to guide it (although set the fence just out of play for safety). Cheap quick and effective, especially for the short pieces you are machining.
11/28 #11: Jointing on the Shaper ...
Jointing works well to a long out side fence using stock that has been cut over sized. We have a straight line rip saw that is very good BUT some lumber has built in stress that is relieved when sawn and results in a crook.
11/30 #12: Jointing on the Shaper ...
a 36" long piece could easily be done on a jointer. If I were going to try that on a shaper I'd use an outboard fence. In that way the contact edge against the guide isn't cut off on the first pass and might result in a straighter edge.
Might be better to use the same principal but with a table saw, long outboard fence and a power feeder. Your pieces are short, should be easy enough to do.
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