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Pull out spacers.3/25
I'm trying to come with a better solution for pull out spacers on inset cabinets. Right now we are using 3/4'' x 2'' spacers, but seen to be too time consuming. 90% of our cabinets are inset and we flush out our box with the face frame and we use 1" thick doors, so we need at least 2" spacers. Just wonder if you guys like to share what do you use it. Thanks and happy Easter.
Flush the side panel to the inside edge of the frame, on finished ends this means 2 end panels. That way your spacers are only 1", and Blum makes a specific plastic spacer for tandems for just this purpose. We use our CNC to predrill these holes. Can't get any faster than that. Furthermore, it completely eliminates spacers for standard drawers
I'm not sure if I understand you but like I said on previous post, all our boxes are flush with face frame on the inside and our doors are 1" thick. So when you open the door at 90 deg. you need a minimum 1 1/4", I like to leave 2" so there is 3/4" space between the pull out and door.
Here's how we set the side boxes:
Google Tenn-Tex Plastics.
Not exactly an answer to your question, but I usually talk people into drawers vs. doors with pullouts. To access pullouts you have to open two doors and reach into the cabinet. (3 actions). Drawers, 1 action. Also, pullouts,+slides, hinge+ final finish inside box and backside of door = more $
Just an observation, you sure don't need to use the inset locking devices with a pullout.
The price spread between a standard locking device and the inset is over $2 with no benefit.
I strongly agree dub , the majority of the bases in my kitchens are drawers .
Another main consideration is the fact that roll out shelves behind doors can not be easily accessed by wheel chair .
I too have to agree with dub and D Brown.
My kitchen bases are all drawers.....we do not regret it.
I try to sway customers to go that way also.
All drawers would be easy for me as well, but at the end, is not my decision, i do try to convince my customers to go with drawers. Unfortunately 9 out 10 of my kitchens comes with pull out.
Chuck - I like your method, I'm going to try that.
Edi, we also build a lot of inset cabs. We do our tray blocking the same way as in your pic. We only use the tenn-tex system for pantries due to the ease of adjustment for the customer.
Personally, the clear coated wood looks better then the tenn-tex and honestly easier to install. Buy the time you run all the screws needed to secure the 2" plastic pilasters and install the little hooks on your slides...well lets just say the wood route is the ticket for base cab trays. We made a simple template out of a sheet of 1/4 mdf that we lay over the ends prior to assembly and drill all the holes. I keep a back stock of pre-finished rips for all my different stand off thicknesses.
On another note, where are you getting your door stops?
Jason, i got the door stops from Hafele, you can get for double doors, singles and also for a application where the box is not flush with the face frame, like the first pic at the top of the door. Works very good for us.
Sorry I'm trying to highlight the web but no success.