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type of Router Bit

7/27/16       
Shep Member

Hey guys I am trying to replicate this profile on my end panels and cant seem to get the same look. I can get it with a round over bit but I have to chisel out the other side to make it look right. just seeing if you guys have a easier way to do it. thanks


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7/27/16       #2: type of Router Bit ...
Jared

That's a stopped bead. You'll want to use a radius router bit but take off the bearing and either replace with a smaller bearing that gives you the right step, or use an edge guide attached to your router (look up Bosch router edge guide to see what I mean if you don't have one).

Now that you have the right bit, lower it down so your cut has the same step amount on both the top and the side. You'll need it dead on because you're going to make one long route along the edge, from start to finish. Then you tilt your router (or the part) on its side and do it again. It's the routing along both edges that makes the point come to the proper shape.

7/27/16       #3: type of Router Bit ...
Shep Member

Thanks for the response Jared I will try that method out.

7/27/16       #4: type of Router Bit ...
Leo G

Simple.

Route the bead on one face and then flip it 90 and do a stop route on the other face and you'll get them to meet up like that.

7/27/16       #5: type of Router Bit ...
Mark B Member

Template route it with a V bit. One pass on the side, one pass on the face. Its not a routed corner, its v-carved.

7/28/16       #6: type of Router Bit ...
cabmaker

You might also consider dampening the lumber at the termination points.

Sometimes you will produce a burn in just the short time it takes to start, stop or change direction of the router bit. Making the wood wet first will usually cause some grain to raise but this is much easier to sand out than a burn mark.

7/29/16       #7: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

First off, I would like to thank Shep for posting this question. There is a well-known “high end” cabinetmaker by me that uses this detail all the time, and every time I see it, I say to myself that I need to figure out how his guys do it, and I never find the time…

So after I experimented with some fences and different setting, Leo was right, you do not need to do anything special with auxiliary fences or special bearings. A standard ¼ round bit with bearing is all that is needed and the only complicated thing is to stop the router in the same place twice. You will also need the sand the profile to soften the edges and blend everything together nicely.

First picture shows the first pass with my stops and the second picture shows the finished sample.

Mark


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7/29/16       #8: type of Router Bit ...
Leo G Member

No one listens to me.

LOL

7/29/16       #9: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

Leo,

I would have if you posted some pictures :-)

Mark

7/29/16       #10: type of Router Bit ...
Leo G Member

The OPs picture is likely a 3/8" or 1/2" round over bit with a 1/16" shoulder. The 1/4" you showed works as a demonstration but I believe the original picture's router bit diameter is larger.

If I wasn't sitting in my recliner late at night answering the question I might have done the example like you did. :-)

7/29/16       #11: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

I used a 3/8" round over bit on my sample with a 3/32" shoulder, but the picture washed it out and makes it look kinda wimpy. The bead ended up being around 5/16" and looks real nice in person.

Mark

7/29/16       #12: type of Router Bit ...
Shep Member

thanks for the feed back guys cant wait to try it out. I think it looks really cool.

7/29/16       #13: type of Router Bit ...
Leo G Member

If you want the full radius to show you need to swap out the bearing on the bit so it's 1/8" smaller which will give you a 1/16" shoulder on the top and bottom of the round over. Then the cutter won't recut into the roundover on the wood. You won't get the muted shape, it'll be the full true radius.

I guess I left that part out huh? That's why I said a 1/16" shoulder. So it would match the cut of the smaller bearing on the bit.

7/30/16       #14: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

I tried that and it didn't work without a lot of fiddling. The lower part of the cutter, just above the bearing cuts into the large radiused profile on the adjacent edge. I suppose if you were to setup a dedicated router it might make sense.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so....

The details of this exercise were, 3/8" bit with 3/8” bearing (replaced the ½” bearing). Height set approximately 1/16” down.

See Leo, if I had listened to you in the first place I would not have figured this out :-)


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7/30/16       #15: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

Now, when using a standard quarter round bit, like in my first post, the required sanding really does blend the two radiuses into one smooth round over. Depth appears to be non-critical as I set the ½ radius bit to leave a 1/8” shoulder. So set up is very quick.

First picture is right when I was done routing.

Second picture is the non-true radius Leo was referring to.

Third picture shows the only place that needs significant detailing. (This is the same with both set-ups.)


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View higher quality, full size image (1224 X 1632)


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7/30/16       #16: type of Router Bit ...
Mark V.

Before and after a quick sanding...

The final analysis?
I will use a standard round over bit every time, because it is faster and easier.


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