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truing an import slr10/26
i've got a 2012 grizzly slr. it appears to be the same as the entry level oliver, cantek, extrema, etc. model. it does a pretty good job of straight lining, but the blade is cutting slightly out of square. i measured the run-out and we're .001" so this isn't it. with the blade over design, i'm guessing there isn't a way to adjust an tilt of the blade or arbor. the only other idea i have would be to see about adjusting (or thoroughly cleaning) the race/chain, in order to make it square to the blade. grizzly isn't any help and there is nothing in the manual about adjusting either the blade or chain. i'm only taking about 1/64" or so on 1.5" - 2" thick hardwoods.
has anyone done something like this? any other thoughts (beside upgrading to a diehl - i tried but it is simply beyond my budget)?
Well, see how the motor or trunnion is mounted. Maybe there is a place where you can insert some shims.
I have very little knowledge of the machine but there must be a way to adjust it. Shimming the blade arbor (trunnion) sounds like a good thing to investigate first. I would be leary of adjusting the guides unless you had reference manual for it.
Perhaps you could buy a Cantek manual? They might be more helpful.
thanks for your replies.
i had the same thought about shimming the arbor housing/mount shortly after i posted this. we're going to explore that later today or tomorrow.
another thing that seems to be happening every now and then - we're getting either snipe (like snipe) about 6" on either end, or the saw is cutting a convex cut (opposite a hollow cut). i don't think this is tension release as the same convex cut has been on either side of the same board. would this have anything to do with how we tension our hold down rollers? i don't think they have been adjusted from the factory, but we bought the machine used so i really don't know. would increasing tension give us a better cut? we have an in-feed and out-feed table so i think the pieces are adequately supported.
You should be able to adjust the fence ever so slightly. If it is tailing off towards the rear of the board, move the front of the fence just a little. Do not shim!
One thing that occurs to me is that if you are just buzzing the edge of a board that thick, perhaps the blade is dishing because it is not having equal force applied to both sides of the blade.
Does this out of square occur if you run the board through and have the blade cut, say, about a half inch off of the edge of the board? If the out of square edge is acute from the top face of the board when just buzzing the edge, that may be the reason, and that may account for both of your problems, the out of square and the "snipe".
One thing to check as well is to see if the blade is properly supported by the arbor flange and the arbor washer. Make sure that they are both the same diameter, because tightening a smaller relieved washer into a larger one may cause the blade body to dish, thus causing all sorts of problems.
Hope this helps.
tony - thanks for the thoughts. we're normally cutting away 1/2" + worth of material on either side of the board. i'll double-check this, because that might be part of the inconsistent results we've been getting.
Talk to several saw blade makers to see what type of blade they recommend for that machine. I know that with the Diehl machines, the blades were important.
However, the "glue line quality" typically comes from the tracks/chains and how they are capable of holding the lumber.