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Edgeing doors and fronts1/20
For thirty years Ive edged cabinet doors on a shaper with a feeder and a push block when running across the ends. For drawer fronts Ive always swung feeder out of way ran ends by hand using a large push block with a handle then fed long sides with the feeder. Ive never allowed employees to do the drawerfront ends . Now due to an injury im forced to let an employee do this process How are others handleing the end grain on the drawerfronts? ive thought about a copeing sled but looking for as many ideas as can find
Did you get injured running the fronts?
No lost forefinger and thumb in a tablesaw kick back accident. Thumb was reattached but lost forefinger for good. Edge it doors and drawer fronts is something Iíve always done because it takes focus to not ruin a door at it most expensive point in the manufacturing process( when itís almost finished). We run edges on a large Northfeid foundry shaper that for some reason doesnít have a groove in the table. Also the fence has a 1/16Ē loss built into it as all doors and fronts come off assembly at 1/8Ē oversized Have several air clamp and manual clamp fixtures. Has anyone built some type of overlay for the shaper table that has a copeing groove in it? If so what material did you use . Iím thinking sled type solution for this setup and can probably figure something out but have learned thru the years to get ideas from woodweb first and it saves much time when actually setting it up
I just use a 12x12 square of scrap ply with a grab block screwed to it much like you have. It seems pretty safe to me.
But I have built a coping sled that would work. It's just a piece of 1/2 mdf with a rail screwed on at 90 degrees I have a couple of toggle clamps on it to hold the pieces firm.
I know they sell sliding tables for shapers, I haven't used or even saw one irl though honestly.
When I run profiles I rarely need to use a backer block. End, side, end, side. On occasion you might have a chipout in some gnarly woods, but even then it's unusual.
I always used a feeder, put the block behind it if you think it's necessary. In that case I usually do end, end, side, side.
We have always done it the way Leo described it. Maybe its a Connecticut thing.
99% of shaper work is done with the feeder. You can run really small parts with zero defects with the feeder & sled.
You would get in serious trouble if somebody got hurt using your old method.
I always wonder why guys remove a 16th from every edge. I never had a situation where i thought it was necessary. I edge sand doors then run outside profile. If you are shaping off material then it needs to be edge sanded after the profile. I also run a bearing under my edge cutters so nothing will dip in to the cutter. If you are not running a bearing, depending on your particular cutter, then can you make a continuous fence?
Also...Sorry to hear about your accident Keith!
We use a continuous fence under the cutter and run the edges to remove the profile only, like Leo. On woods prone to blow out, we will send a backer block through the feeder along with the end grain cuts and butt multiples together.
Look into a Unique 250 shaper. WAY safe and employees can run it and will handle 2" parts easily.
We invested in a shape and sand machine (unique 412) about 2 years ago. One of the best investments ever made. We run the edge and sand it in one pass. We don't have the issues we use to have when running the edge on a shaper. Issues like: not enough pressure on the part, inside edge of door frame catching on corner of shaper table, chatter from improper hold down...you get the point. The shape and sand, although pricey, makes it very easy for average joe to get a professional edge.
door shop guy,
usually the shops who like to take 1/16" off of everything they run through the shaper are doing to to ensure they always get a full depth on everything they run.
i run 8 different door edge profiles only two of them cut only on the top corner of the piece . the others profile all down the side ( finger pull details., etc) About only thing i can do is keep split fences pushed as close to knife on each side as possible. Im guilty of not checking this and end up operating the fence gaps at the largest knife size that I run. As far as taking off the 1/16" from all edges ,I learned years ago that by tasking a deeper cut it puts thev "chip out " area out in the material thats gone . We do this with stile and rail sticking as well. Thanks for all the comments I'm just looking at all my processes trying to safe e everything up .
I offer 32 different edge profiles as well as will match any sample my customers are needing to match. Like i said..never seen the need to remove extra material for edges.
Door shop guy So Do you have continuous fence for all the profiles? Do you swap fences for each knife? My knives, excluding a couple of inset heads with same minor diameter, are various heights /sizes. I dont see how I can use a continuous fence unless I have a seperate one for each head