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Cabinet spraying & site touchups11/10
Hey guys, for years we have brush finished our cabinetry but are now looking to transition to spraying water based lacquers. As a spray newbie, my question is, how do you do field touchups? Handling scribes to walls and painting caulked transitions? Brushing is obviously extremely labor intensive, however lends itself to more freedom in the field. Excuse me if Iím questioning the obvious, however I havenít wrapped my head around the logistics.
We often leaves FF stiles off if installing a cabinet between two walls, scribing and installing it in the field. However, the joint usually needs a little sanding with differences in mill thickness. There must be a better way? I donít believe we could do this with a sprayed finish.
Anyone want to help me wrap my head around this?
You need to be careful. You need to design things so they can be installed with the finish on them. You need to come up with different ways of handling cabinets because fixing a sprayed finish is a lot tougher than a brushed finish.
After almost all my installs there are no touch ups. The only thing that gets touched up are nail holes for moldings and such. Use 23ga nails which leave small holes and are easier to hide.
Techniques and care.
How do you handle transitions to the wall? For example: if installing a built-in bookcase with a shaker style side panel, you will need to scribe the side panel to the wall. No matter how tight the scribe is, that transition to the wall is still caulked purely for aesthetics. Which will need to be painted, correct?
Mix Artist Acrylic tube colors into the caulk your using ; to match the finish color on your cabinets.
We handle our cabinetry very carefully, bubble wrap, corner protectors and shrink wrap for delivery, start installation on the very next day, all our cabinets have 1/2'' scribes where touch the wall, When caulk needed, we use Exact Color Caulk, you can mix any color. Any moldings we use 23 ga and "Fill sticks" from Mohawk. After installation is complete, we do a walk thru with the owner. But no matter how careful we are, there is always some schmuck that damages something, and then we get a phone call, "I'm sorry Edi I know is not your fault but can you fix some dents/scratches in the cabinets?". Welcome to the Club!!!!
Does the Exact Color Caulk work with Lacquer painted finishes? Does it stay sticky when unpainted? I have noticed that unpainted latex caulk joints tend to attract dust over time that sticks and is very hard to get off.
Get a tube of DAP. Cut the bottom of the tube off and squeeze out the contents onto a flat surface. ( we used a scrap piece of Marble ). Squirt whatever color/ colors of Artists Acrylic Color onto the flat surface piece your using.
Mix it up until its mixed up well. With a Putty knife, scoot the mixture back into the empty tube. Fold the bottom like you would a tube of Tooth Paste and securely wrap it with some Duct Tape.
Snip off the tubes tip at an angle and carry on.
If your only caulking a small area you don't need to color the entire tube of caulk.
An Air Brush works wonders. But requires a lot of practice to leave a professional finish that blends perfectly. I usually use on crown and trim where caulk just refuses to match.
Color match caulk is best if you can get it right.
I much prefer the aesthetics of a good scribe and seldom use caulk. An aesthetically comparable caulk joint requires masking tape.