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If you go up to that little search box in the upper right corner, you'll get over 100 hits on a search for IPE glue. I have no personal experience gluing IPE, so can't help.
I've seen plenty of glue failures with Ipe. You need to follow the standard exterior glueing procedure for teak of washing with denatured alcohol or acetone prior to glueing with a typical marine epoxy like West System.
In my experience ipe is harder to get a good bond than teak. The surfaces must be abraded with 60-80 grit. It is so hard and smooth the epoxy will not bond properly if not abraded.
Epoxy likes thick glue joints so don't clamp it as hard as a typical pva bond.
The mixing of epoxy takes seconds. It is often the only glue to use for hard to bond woods. Small batches are the key to not wasting it. Mix it in single serve plastic dixie type cups. Or any recyclable container marketed PP(polypropylene). Wood tongue depressers are the ideal mixing sticks or cut a few of your own out of rippings.
One failure will cost way more than a bit of epoxy and a few minutes required to mix it.
By the way ipe is one of the worst woods to work. The dust, splitting, twisting, warping, and troubles bonding turned us off years ago. You've got to pay me a decent amount of money to bring that in the shop.
I agree Adam, and not to mention how fast a splinter will fester. For me anyway. I really like it for turning fine detail pieces on some artistic boxes. Also made some small crochet needles for my niece. No glue to worry about with those.
Thanks for the well explained response Adam, I've done few outdoor decks out of Ipe, none requiring any glueing, I guess I'll stick with west system. I didn't want to get this one, so I put a price to lose the job, guess what?
Adams advice needs to make it to HGTV and the like. Those are the prime drivers for our requests for IPE. And just like the maker world, they never show the after effects or what the 5 year reality is.
I remember a job a lifetime ago. It was one of the first monster decks we did with ipe. It had miles of that off the shelf profiled handrail. Not long after the install(first rain?) the handrail developed splinters. We sanded it back again & again. Finally ripped it all off and replaced it with flat stock. Expensive lesson. That waxy end sealer is a must. Otherwise it all splits. No matter how neat a job you do you can always see those waxed ends. Its all good until somebody spills some on the face of a board. You got to predrill for face screwing or make a big nasty ipe dust mess with a biscuit joiner.
I always enjoyed taking a shower at night and the water comes off you like wood stain. You gotta wonder how much of that nasty dust you inhaled that day.
We once did a pergola job with 10" solid posts that were like 12' long. Had to use the fork lift to move them around. I had to free hand shape the curved rafters. 2 1/2" deep mortises with a 1/2" bit were scary.
I don't like it. You can keep it.
Sounds about like pressure treated to me. You take all the pains in the world to make things look good for the check and in a few weeks it's going to do whatever its gonna do
I built a pergola from ipe'. I used 3/4" and 1" ipe' dowels for the connections and ipe' Miller dowels for the smaller stuff. I ended up using Titebond 3 for the glue, but the glue wasn't needed to hold much, just the pegs from sliding out. You can call Miller and they may still have some stock left over from when they carried ipe'.
I built my deck out of Ipe' 3 or 4 years ago. I didn't find it all that hard to work with, but the splinters sure are nasty. I had to glue a few returned corners. I used TB III for a couple and Gorilla Glue for several more. All of the ones with TB III have opened up while all the ones with GG are still fine. I live in the NE where the temp. and RH swing all over the place during the year. Gorilla Glue would be my choice. I didn't do any special prep. work other than to use fresh cut surfaces.
One comment about Ipe'. When you buy it it's only partially KD; maybe it's KD19 like construction lumber, but they don't tell you. They tell you to sticker it for at least a week out of the weather before working it. I let it sit 2 or 3 weeks, but it was not nearly long enough and I had a lot more shrinkage than l had hoped for. If I use it again I will let it sit for as long as it takes to get the MC down to 12 - 14%, which is EMC for my area.
If anyone knows of a good finish for Ipe' please let me know. I've used Ipe' Oil and Penofin Hardwood Oil and neither lasts one season. Looks great for a month then goes down hill in a hurry. By the following Spring it looks awful and is a pain to clean/strip to do it all over again. There must be some product that will last at least a year. Help!
I can tell Adam has some experience with oily woods. We still use some West System products. We have been using Smith's CPES for at least 40 years on boats and other objects that use oily woods. We only use the WS epoxy for request for topcoat. We've been using their Oak & Teak Glue for at least 15. It has been invaluable to our business. If you want to avoid 2 part finishes for any outdoor work, get ready to be called back again and again. And not for the right reasons. We've recently completed a Spanish Cedar outdoor kitchen using the glue and CPES. We're about to find out how it works without a topcoat as the owner likes the look as is. Yes it is more expensive. Yes it takes longer to do it right. Do a little research and decide for yourself. There's no doubt in my mind that a 63 ft. wooden mast on a sailboat repaired with Smith's products will outperform any product on the market today. Because it has. Their CPES is also rebranded as "MultiWoodPrime" and we wouldn't put a topcoat on without using it first. Send me all of your Ipe, teak, cumaru or any oily wood jobs if ya'll don't want them. We'll take them splinters and all.
Smith's Oak & Teak Glue