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Plunging a moulding face into a shaper cutter10/3
I don't think I would try it that way. Something you might try is to bring the reeding cutter through a scrap fence on the shaper, so that the scrap board creates a chipbreaker for the molding.
Using a powerfeeder, run the molding as you would any molding, then before you get to the end, stop the feeder first, then turn the shaper off. Give yourself extra length so that you can cut both the flat and the reeds to the correct size.
If the reeding has flats on both edges, you could also run the reeding, rip off the flats to either side, cut the end and attach the flat for the carving block, and then attach flats that extend the entire length. This would end the reeding abruptly at the carving block face, rather that have the reeding curve up to a flat.
I must confess that in 42 years I have never seen the reeding curve up to a flat as a pilaster design feature.
Your mileage may vary, and others may disagree with these methods. Hope this helps.
I never gave thought to stopping the reeding instead of milling it off but I do think I like the idea. I'm milling in Cherry so it will be a challenge to stop without burning at the stop end of the reeds but I'm using a new set of cutters so it may just cut clean for the few I am cutting. Great Idea Tony, thanks!
At a shop I worked at long ago they had a 9 bead cutterhead that they put in a shaper and did a stop reed for pilasters. The plunge was only about 5/32" deep because the bead was 5/16".
They had stop lines on the fence and the board to be run and they would just plunge it and push and then stop and lift. They use to screw a board on each end to use as a handle.
This process scares me a little but you also make a good point Leo in that the actual load on the cutters is minimal because there just isn't a lot of knife in the wood. Now not as scary to me trying to plunge in. But still, if I have to hand feed the plunge, should I use a stop on the infeed fence to support the work piece during the initial plunge?
This is a risky operation. I too would use a stop block for the initial plunge so it couldn't get away from you. This probably means extending the fence to be long enough. Cherry will be a challenge to prevent burning, be fast but careful. Adding hand holds to the back of the work seems like a good idea also. Will make it easier to be fast enough to keep from burning.
In the past I would have thought about doing this on the shaper if we had a pile to do.
The router is the obvious choice for less than a pile.
If I had a pile I would either do it on my own cnc or sub it out to another shop with a cnc.
We’ve done a bunch on our Woodmaster. Those were tapered.
The quantity of a pile is determined by oneself.
Late to the party, but figured I'd throw this out if it may help anyone else.
When I do fluted work it's almost always going to be a stopped cut, and it's almost always going to be a rounded v-shape as I don't like the all to common half round shape.
So how to run them.... actually very easy. I set up in-feed and out-feed tables for my shaper.... useful for many other tasks BTW. Then I clamp start and stop blocks to the tables. This allows me to very safely feed the blank into the knives. It cannot kick back as the stop block is there and it also ensures each groove is in exactly the same place.
FWIW, the rounded ends of flutes or reeds is considered more desirable than 'points'. The rounded ends must be carved, requiring more time and more skill.
I mention this even though most readers will see the rounded ends not as more desirable, but more work, and therefore rule them out. 'Less work is better' has become the mantra. Between outsourcing and omitting details like carved reed ends, we wonder why the craft appears to be diminishing. The wood industry as a whole, and the architectural producers specifically really do a terrible job of marketing. We spend most of out time trying to make it cheaper to sell it, no time is spent on making it better by using better methods.
I've never carved out the box core bit flutes at the stop end. If they burn I will use a rounded scraper to clean them up and then sand them a bit.
I hate through flutes, looks cheap.
With reeds I will make a length and round over the ends and then round over the edge and slice them off so the ends are finished.
Hey David, I'm not sure I've ever seen a carved rounded flute end? If your using a half round bit to run them, (as seemingly most do), the end is already round... so I'm sure your describing something else. On the reeds I get it. I'd have to see a pic to get on the same page I think.
The v- style, (well actually more a spade shape I guess), grooves are pretty rare in modern work that I've seen. Possibly b/c no-one makes a cutter for them? I ground my own to match a set from an early 20th century piece, as I don't like the typical half round grooves prevalent in modern work. And b/c I run them in a decent sized head the ramps are perfect..... to my eye at least.
I'm missing something, why would you even consider doing them on anything but a cnc?
I am making reeded moulding not fluted but that's beside the point, Pat, I don't have a CNC. I have routers and shapers.
Fair enough, that would be tough to do without burning