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Gluing face frames

10/30/19       
Pinetree

I have always put my face frames on to the carcass with some kind of spline ,biscuit and or pocket screws. The place I am at now they attach the frames with just glue and clamps to the carcass and just glue to the stile and rail. Does anyone else use this technique and if so have had any trouble with it.

10/30/19       #2: Gluing face frames ...
DJS

We've been gluing and clamping faceframes onto our 3/4" boxes for with no additional splines or biscuits for 25 years and have never had a failure. And if a mistake is made and the faceframe needs to come off after 24 hours forget it, just start over. Splines and biscuits are unnecessary.

10/30/19       #3: Gluing face frames ...
Mark B Member

Same here. Only difference is we opt for pocket screws rather than waiting on clamp time. A shop we cut for has been gluing and clamping for 25 years or more as well with zero issues.

I could see biscuits/splines/dado being helpful with registration or making for idiot proof assembly but zero need from a quality/structural standpoint for me.

10/30/19       #4: Gluing face frames ...
Leo G Member

Glue only here too. On occasion I'll use a biscuit or three for lining something up. Usually when the FF needs to be attached in the field.

10/31/19       #5: Gluing face frames ...
SteveL Member

Just Glue. As mentioned above frames are impossible to get off after the glue sets. I have considered dados for speeding up assembly and consistent reveals but its not needed for strength.

10/31/19       #6: Gluing face frames ...
Matt Calnen

Did I understand you correctly that before the faceframe is put on, it is just glued together with a plain butt joint? That would be the biggest area of concern for me. At the minimum pocket screws should be used there.

10/31/19       #7: Gluing face frames ...
Leo G Member

The cured glue joint is stronger than the wood. Only thing biscuits, dadoes do are alignment. It might be stronger, but who cares when it destroys the wood taking it apart?

10/31/19       #8: Gluing face frames ...
DJS

Matt,

I was talking strictly about the faceframe attached to the cabinet. The joints of the faceframe itself are glued and pocket screwed, in our case.

DJS

10/31/19       #9: Gluing face frames ...
Guinea Member

Glue and pocket screws. Clamps in situations where the pocket holes would be a cosmetic issue. Since we finish prior to assembly, non-marring blocks or pads are used where the clamps are necessary.

10/31/19       #10: Gluing face frames ...
aj

Switched to Lamello Zeta a couple years ago - amazing system, makes finishing and install a breeze

10/31/19       #11: Gluing face frames ...
Adam

Guinea described our method word-for-word.

11/1/19       #12: Gluing face frames ...
Chris H.

Website: https://www.csaw.com/lamello/

To build a little upon AJ's success with using the Zeta P2 machine/P-System for attaching face frames, here are a couple of Instagram posts of other customers who have used it for the same application:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BzJp8gThBFk/

https://www.instagram.
com/p/B1XPomrgXqI/

Lamello Tenso P-14 connector

12/9/19       #13: Gluing face frames ...
JeffM

Just screws...no glue! No mess, no clamps...on to the next box.

12/9/19       #14: Gluing face frames ...
Leo G Member

And cracked paint in your future.

12/9/19       #15: Gluing face frames ...
JeffM

All stain. What would cause paint to crack on FF's if not glued?? I don't do much paint at all, but have never had a problem. I always put a separation joint from frame to case side if that's what you're talking about.


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