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Ok, I know this question has been brought up many times, but here's where I'm at. Four cherry countertops to finish. One of those will have an undermount sink. Customer would like the ability to refinish down the road. This pretty much leads me to waterlox, but I am not a fan of the final look or the time it takes to get there. I would like to use verde chiaro(chemcrafts 2k poly) or Euro X (MLC's 2k poly) . I spray CV but have no experience with 2k polys. I would think it should never need refinishing, but am unsure how it will do around the undermount sink. Does it stay somewhat flexible? My chemcraft rep did not have much experience with it. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
to me the verde is just as easy to use as CV......maybe easier . any time I bring up severe usage , my chemcraft guy answers with verde . I just did a set of stair treads with it . I shot a test board with it........4 mils first coat .......second coat 10 mils.......third coat another 10 mils.....2 weeks later it's just fine . not saying thats a good idea , as I was just messin around .
one time when I was shooting some pre-cat I had a verde color chip under the pieces I was hitting with pre-cat.....and it got coated with a good 30 mils of lacquer during the spray session . about 20 minutes or so later , the lacquer was still gooey as I scraped it off the color chip with a putty knife ; finished with a wipe with thinner , and the verde showed no visible damage....at all .
but if someone butchers a few pigs on it....who knows .
Use one of the catalyzed floor finishes.
Funny, my chemcraft guy actually talked me out of the verde for this application. It's just the undermount sink. His feeling is that a film finish around a cut out with exposed end grain plus water exposure is a potential problem. I guess I agree. My samples with waterlox are turning out pretty well, just nowhere near as nice as cv, and weeks longer to do. I'm going to test some verde as well. Are you guys saying you would feel confident in the verde for around an under mount sink?
I tried the Campbell Euro on a counter a few years back and it failed. Pulled the counters, brought them back to the shop, and refinished again with Euro after my supplier claimed the stain I used was a problem.
Used Campbell's stain on refinish, then the Euro schedule, and the counters are failing again within a year. Mostly around the undermount sink area but also in other areas too.
My feeling is these types of finishes are too hard and finicky for counters where there is lots of movement in the solid wood and lots of wear and tear.
I am with Leo on this, a good floor varnish is durable, and easily refinished later with a scuff and recoat, and can be done on site with a brush.
You can seal the end grain at the sink cutout with polyester. Or you can polyester all the tops. If you are pigment staining, then you must use a barrier coat prior to polyester - and this is true with the urethane alone system as well. I would skip the urethane sealer altogether, and go straight to the chiaro topcoat after isolante barrier coat, if staining, and polyester sealer. Done it many many times with CCI, Ilva,Seagrave, Sayerlack, etc. Caution: balance board grain direction especially if over 4" wide; and coat the underside with the same system as top!
I am a verde chairo user, it wouldn't bither me a bit to use it to finish a bar top with a undermount sink. Measure the 2 to 1 ratio correctly and I put a little reducer/retarder in it to make it spray better and slow the drying down a little. I shoot two coats of the sealer and two coats of the chairo scuffing between coats. Spray the bottom of the bar as well. Very good finish, I love it. As soon as my rep comes up with a water based glaze for me I will probably switch from the cv, which I really like also. One thing about the verde, it scuffs like a dream.
kevin, We at Milesi can help you with our 2k Milesi Italian high performance urethanes. Contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org for a great solution.