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Water poly over De-waxed shellac3/22
I am refinishing a very large table that was originally finished with a post-catalyzed lacquer. I cannot spray my finish due to location constraints (people working nearby, no adequate ventilation possible).
After sanding with 400 grit and wiping liquid sandpaper, I was told to apply de-waxed shellac to prevent fish-eyes.
Does the de-waxed shellac need to be lightly sanded before water poly is applied?
Is there a better option besides using water poly? I want the finish to dry fairly quickly due to potential airborne dust
Yes, dewaxed shellac will seal in any contaminates that might still be on the table so that the topcoat will go on w/o problems. But I don't know how you are going to apply it to a large table top if you can't spray. Shellac dries nearly instantly and is very difficult to apply by hand to a large surface w/o defects. Forget using a brush. I wouldn't use plain old waterbased poly either. General Finishes water borne EnduroVar or Enduro Clear Poly would be much better choices but, again, I'd spray them. If you can't spray, no matter what, I'd wipe on the shellac and use a wiping varnish like Arm-R-Seal or Waterlox as the topcoat. Both take quite a while before they set, however, and you would have to protect the top from getting dust on it until it sets.
Things would be so much better if you figure out how to spray.
Thanks for your advice John. I'll definitely use the shellac. I'll probably wipe it on in a pendulum motion and thin it down. you're right, spraying the table would be so much easier. Just makes the challenge that much more fun. I'll let you know how it goes
I think that you'll have a very hard time getting good results with this plan. Wiping the shellac will probably dislodge some of the contaminants (silicone from Pledge being the most likely one) and bring them to the surface, where they'll stay once the shellac dries.
You'd be better off removing as much of the contamination with an automotive wax and silicone remover (Pre-Kleano, for example). Multiple applications are usually needed to do the job and tons of clean rags or paper towels that you throw away after one pass.
Even after that, I'd still want to seal it with shellac, but trying to hand apply it to a large table will drive you nuts. I use a lot of WB topcoats, but there's not a single one that I'd use for a large table top if could avoid it. Spraying it is the only way you can hope to get good results, but it's not going to be furniture quality off the gun, and the ultimate durability might not be satisfactory.
You should really find a way to get the table, or at least the top, to a place where you can do everything in a controlled environment. Even then, refinishing sucks. I've done it a bunch of times, and I have sworn it off for good.