|Home » Forums » Professional Finishing » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Is precat lacquer not tough enough for a heavy use table?4/5
I do a lot of refinishing work on table tops and I've been looking for a topcoat I can use as my "go to" topcoat when I'm doing a heavy traffic table top, like a kitchen table, etc..
I currently use nitro and precat lacquers for most furniture, but occasionally, there will be a request for a super durable coating. I've used precat lacquer many times (and never had a call back) but I know it's not as tough as single or 2 component poly - I just can't deal with the drying time of poly.
What are you all getting by with on high-demand table tops?
conversion varnish or 2 part urethane .
I did my own kitchen table top about 3 to 4 years ago with a dye and CV ( only 2 coats) . its held up o.k. , and I dont treat it well at all . it does take on a whitish hue when something hot is placed on it , but the white disappears soon after removal .
I did my daughters table with CV ( again , only 2 coats) . it took a pounding from 4 kids for about 2 years .......and I mean a pounding . looked like hell , but the coating didnt fail . re-did it again with 2 part urethane about 6 months ago ; didnt notice anything last time I saw it .
if I was going to do a table top with CV , I would probably try to get as close to the max-mils as I could stand .
Any preferred brands/products?
I would definitely recommend a 2K polyurethane for a table that needs maximum durability. The 2K poly will offer the best durability available for this requirement in regards to Abrasion Chemical, moisture, scuff and heat resistance.
You are correct, precat is not tough enough for tables.
2K polyurethane is the way to go. Similar in formulation but a furniture grade.
A two component polyurethane specificaly designed for wood. It is European Wood finishing technology, similiar to an automotive urethane. You can check out the www.milesi.us website for more information. Best - JT
How much durability do you gain with 2k poly over CV?
quite a bit , in my opinion . I've told this story before , but here goes again...........
while spraying pre-cat one day , there was a color chip ( Verde ) laying on the spray table . through the course of the day , the chip became coated with somewhere in the vicinity of 30 to 40 mils of lacquer . as it dried and became gooey , I scraped the lacquer off with a chisel . I cleaned it up and was surprised to see the urethane coating showed no sign of damage....at all . thats pretty impressive .
Looks to me the wood 2k urethane costs
I have some flattener made just for that.
Another thing about auto urethane,
I'm using the ILVA 2K acrylic urethane. the sealer is about 45% solids whereas the topcoat is about24%.
not sure if this is an issue or not , but coatings meant for autobody may not be formulated to shrink and expand ....as we all know wood does plenty of .
Jimmy Cream. Steel sheet metal subjected to -30F to 150F expands & contracts significantly. Autos routinely are subject the "shock" of going from ice coated freezing to hot water car washes. Have you not seen dents without finish loss from severe hail? Ever hear of "Paintless Dent Removal"? Should I mention the finish on the flexible bumper covers? I have seen polyester piano finishes cracked & shattered from impacts that barely bruised the substrate. Does this remove your doubt about Jim Clark having success finishing wood with automotive clear?
like I said Thomas.....not sure whether it's an issue.......I threw it on the table in case it wasnt thought about .
If I was painting metal , I would use a product designed for metal . If I was painting wood , I would use a product intended for wood......so on and so forth .
thats just how I roll.
I have had concerns too, I was told by the