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Yet another Minwax adhesion issue5/16
Let me say from the start to ward off the naysayers I don't consider myself a finisher but a woodworker that finishes my stuff like many others. The project is Qt sawn white oak doors and drawer fronts, veneer panels with solid edges.
Thank you for any suggestions
For what it's worth I've never had a problem with minwax stains - I don't like them, but no problems. Normally I don't wait anywhere close to the 24 hours instructed, closer to 1 or 2 usually - maybe the difference here is I seal it with vinyl sealer and sand to 150/180. Sanding to 220 might be causing your problem, possibly burnishing the wood's surface if your using an actual da sander and sanding with a clogged up disc (220 clogs much faster than lower grits).
"What wiping stain can you recommend when I remake this job?"
On the minwax can it say's "stains and seals". So your sealer couldn't bite into the wood. Just to test this make a sample.
I would guess that the sealcoat was too old and did not cure properly and you certainly did not need a second coat of sealcoat. And Mike has it right with the vinyl sealer, a way better sealer.
Minwax stain is all I've used for the past
How long did you let the Minwax stain dry?
24 hours minimum in nice weather, I would think.
Oak can suck up a lot of oil stain.
Had one job where the office was pushing on the delivery date and didn't listen to me.
Finisher didn't let stain dry enough (not Minwax) and we ended up with some cloudy, less than optimal looking stuff.
Some of the Minwax stain colors dry much
Thank you for the replies, I don't think any one has hit on the answer yet. That there is only a problem where the Minwax is seems to rule out sanding too fine and bad shellac. Further exonerating the shellac is the same issue is seen where there was WB sealer used on samples- in fact the samples had a different top coat also. That leaves drying time, but that is hard for me to believe as even where there is very little stain there is no adhesion. It really seems like contamination in the stain - except the samples came from a different can so that's questionable also.
As a follow up, I made a new sample with Behlen 15 minute stain (24 hour dry time), all other steps the same as the failed project.
FYI Mohawk is part of the same company that Behlen is (RPM); Behlen is a consumer line and Mohawk is more professional - larger variety, cheaper, and larger quantities available.
Thank you Mike, do you happen to know if the stain colors cross reference? Apparently the "15 minute stain" is discontinued, I have enough for this job but may need more in the future.
My guess is Aqualente is the problem. Try using the same toner and stain then skip the sealcoat and aqualente and use a laquer or CV topcoat.
If you want to use WB topcoats then use WB stains and skip the sealcoat.
I am not saying it can't be done but there are certainly potential problems as you are finding and KISS is an under rated concept.