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Major problem.....cherry and gray7/1
Have a huge job ready to be installed and can't get the color right. Customer initially wanted cherry cabinets to match durasupremes morell on cherry. Then after picking floor out they wanted it to be more gray rather than the brownish gray. I talked them into using birch....then my sales rep talked me back into cherry and said won't be a problem getting it gray.....well i put my trust in him as I didn't have time to play around with colors....
Well guess what....not having any luck. Can't kill the red or it turns blue. Working on a possible dye next. Any one else come across this??
i would be calling my sales rep who said it wouldnt be a problem getting it grey and let him make up a stain formula since its no problem. Other than that, you have a tough one here buddy. Try using blue and yellow dye with mixed into some acetone with white vinyl basecoat.
This is where i would begin the matching process :
Acetone : 400 grams
You are not going to get there in one step stain process. Just not going to happen.
It might take a stain, glaze and toner to get that all the way out. Start more white than you have to. Sherwin Williams has a great white stain that is heavy on pigment. Leave it on very heavy. Then build off that. We usually accomplish it with a glaze but a toner, or a glaze/toner combo would work.
Good luck. Robert
Have you considered a light bleaching using the Wood-Kote bleach. It can be sprayed on,it wont leave a crusty mess like some bleaches do and it wont burn the wood if applied correctly.
One of those Plastic pesticide sprayers work quite well and if you get one with an adjustable nozzle you can get a one foot wide spray pattern.
Rather than try a whole bunch of staining and glazing and toning processes try bleaching a piece of Cherry. It might make your whole coloring process much easier to deal with. You may get to the desired color quicker too.
If you are going to use a garden sprayer you can save time by drilling a hole for a tubeless tire stem so you can fill with compressed air. Don't fill more than 30 psi.
I'm sure Robert knows this but for general info - If you spray the 2 part bleach, please be extra careful not to breathe any amount of it or allow exposure to skin or eyes. It is very caustic. If you use a mask make sure the cartridges are rated for that material
Good of you to post the safety precautions afinisher, they completely slipped my mind.Thanks for the correction.
Cherry wood is very sensitive to acidity, forming a blood red color if exposed to caustic materials...that is, if the finish is above pH 7.0. Likewise, stronger acids result in red colors. So, the finish material needs to be neutral.
Second point is that wood bleach (oxalic acid) is probably a better material than chlorine bleach. Safer too.
The difficulty with any bleach is neutralizing it before proceeding with the next step. Drying alone is not sufficient. The bleach should be washed off, in most cases.
Blue color will not kill the red. It will just turn it purple.
See if your tint specialist can make you a green dye. Spray that on your wood, let it dry for a minute, and then apply the gray wiping stain.
The green dye will tend to kill the red in the cherry. It will be 'darker' than it was to begin with.
If you must get even more gray, use some gray pigmented CV mixed in with your clear to make something of a pickling-topcoat effect. This will washout the grain a little but also impart a lot of the gray you are looking for, while still having at least some grain underneath.
For future jobs, I would recommend you use maple, rather than birch or cherry. Cherry, for obvious reasons, but even the birch can be rather yellow, making the gray stain more difficult.