uniform color on different pieces of wood. Here's one that you can use quickly.... Go to the paint store and get a quart (more if you need it) of oil-based paint mixed to the color grey that matches the weathered color you want. On the other hand, if you have pigments that you can mix to make this color yourself, that's even better. The oil-base grey paint is going to be your stain and toner. Thin it with mineral spirits until it gives you the color you want when applied and wiped (mix a small portion at the ratio of 2 parts thinner to 1-part paint and adjust in measured amounts to determine the best mix). The color the stain provides should be about 2/3 of the final intensity you want when you’re done. Here’s the steps; Prep the wood for staining Apply the stain – let it dry Spray a coat of sealer/finish. Let it dry and sand smooth. Mix 1-2 ounces of the paint with 20 ounces of the same thinner you use with your finish (e.g., lacquer thinner). Add 10 ounces of the finish (ready to spray). Spray this very thin mixture evenly over the entire surface to produce the final weathered grey color. Be careful, you have to avoid runs and sags. Let the toner coat flash off and spray a coat of clear finish over it. Scuff and spray a final coat of finish if required. If you have a black dye that you know is truly black, not green or purple when you thin it down, you can use that for the first coloring step instead of the stain you made. The potential drawback is that the dye will allow the color of the substrate to show through more than the pigmented stain. The wood that looks off-color with the chemical stain will also be off-color with the dye. That can result in the same variation you’re trying to avoid. The best and only approach is to produce large samples of the finish on both types of wood you plan to use to make sure you’re going to get the results you want. It’s a LOT more work to go back and fix it if doesn’t come out right. The picture below shows a sample using this approach. I used dye for the first coloring step and grey stain for the toner. Here’s the steps; The first section on the far left is bare wood. I dyed the remainder of the sample using 1 part black dye and 50 parts thinner – sprayed evenly. Section 2 shows the dye only and section 3 shows the color change when the clear finish/sealer is applied over the dye. Section 4 shows the color after spraying a grey pigmented toner. Be careful with pigmented toner, too much and it masks the grain of the wood. The final color is very close to a piece of weathered pine I used for the match. "> weathered gray ash- killing me. - WOODWEB's Finishing Forum WOODWEB's Professional Finishing - Message


 Looking for equipment, supplies or cutting tools? Try WOODWEB's Product Directory

Finish Systems
Fuji Spray
Finish Systems
Finish Systems

Related Information:
Finishing &

Knowledge Base:







Tropical Hardwoods

UC Coatings Corp.

Unique Building Supples

Unique Machine & Tool

University of Wisconsin



Vacuum Pressing Systems, Inc.

Veneer Systems Inc.

VortexTool Co. Inc.


W. Moore Profiles, Ltd.


WEIMA America, Inc.

Weinig Group-USA

Western Dovetail

Williams and Hussey

Wood Doctor's Rx, LLC

Wood Source


WoodJobs.com Search Consultants



WoodPlanet Inc.


Woodworker's Directory

Woodworking Network, a Division of Vance Corporation

Wright Timber

Thorvie International




Timesavers Inc.

TMS Machinery Sales

Tooling on the Web

WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

 Home » Forums » Professional Finishing » Message
WOODWEB - the information resource for the woodworking industry WOODWEB - the information resource for the woodworking industry WOODWEB - The Information Resource for the Woodworking Industry