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High gloss with staining powder and qualosole10/5
I was touching up the edges of some worn glossy black polyester furniture with Qualasole. The result appears matte. Is there any way to bring this to a high gloss? I mixed in some black staining powder into the qualosole and this resulted in a matte mixture when it dried. If I buff it out will it become glossy? (I am still waiting for it to dry)
I've seen this done in a professional shop and I am trying to duplicate this edge touch up technique. Should I rather use Lubricite 77 or Layover or Shellac for better results?
Thank you for any advice.
Mohawk makes a rubbing compound lubricant for achieving different gloss levels.
I have used 'Level II', # M730-1016 with good results and can achieve a 40 Degree sheen....Level III may do the trick.
I suggest using Mirka Abralon.
Thank you Robert and Rich for your suggestions,
Today I buffed out the qualasole and the area around it to a nice gloss - except the one worn edge where I applied the qualasole. Obviously I am missing a step somewhere with the qualasole. I would like the repaired area to be glossy like the rest of the furniture. The qualasole with the black staining powder does not buff to a gloss. I used an electric buffer as well as Meguairs hand polishes and yet it will not become any glossier.
I think the black opaque staining powder causes the result to be matte. Is there such a product as a gloss staining powder? Or should I put a clear coat of qualasole over the repaired area to make the repair glossy?
Thank you for any suggestions,
Lubricite is a favorite among the NYC area touch up technicians because it's sold by Industrial Finishing Supply in Brooklyn. It's similar enough to Qualosole, they're both padding lacquers.
Your issue is that your granules of pigment aren't being "wetted out" by your padding lacquer. That means that the pigment particule isn't being completely surrounded by the coating because of the lower resin content of the coating (less body).
Mohawk's Lacover comes in their #30 and their heavier body #50.
Your other issue is using a padding lacquer --any padding lacquer, including straight shellac mixes-- over polyester. You might squeeze by with an acrylic lacquer brushed on, not finger padded, but at some angles it'll still show.
Also, instead of fresco colors (Blendal powders), use a powdered dye from Lockwood. The powder dissolves in your touch up coating instead of it hanging in suspension and needing to be wetted out. Then, as had already been suggested, polish your touch up. I would use a forgiving polishing material such as Meguires Mirror Glaze #3. Use Mohawk's Trace Cloth or a microfiber cloth to polish, wrapping the cloth around your finger.
Thanks so much Dan!
This is really helpful information and seems to explain what is happening to the repair. I will give this advice a try.
(Before I read your reply, I was going to suggest that perhaps my black staining powder had matte particles mixed into it so that no matter how much I buffed out the qualasole mixed with tis black powder it would always remain matte. However your reply seems to be a much better explanation.)
I should add that the reason I used a powder stain pigment which is opaque (powder stain pigment mixed into the qualasole), was because I was concerned with colour fading and see-through issues with dyes. I am not sure if this is true, however I read that dyes are not as opaque and that they could fade. Is this just a myth? If dyes are just as opaque as staining powder pigment (especially black dyes) then yes, that would make sense to just use dyes because dyes naturally seem to dissolve easier into the qualasole. I just was not sure if, over time, the dye would fade, and/or the dye would not be opaque enough to cover the repair area. That is why I was reluctant to use dyes for this repair.
Would I be safe to use dyes without having to worry about fading or translucency problems? (I often have to cover worn edges on furniture)
Have you tried a last coat or two of just the padding lacquer with no powder?
Yes I just tried this today and it works much better. The matte quality of the powder stain keeps the repair looking matte however if you apply a clear padding lacquer overtop of the repair area (not using powder stain this time) this results is more of a gloss. The trick is to be able to adjust the amount of powder for each repair area and then, as Rich mentions, to add a clear coat over the repair once complete.
I also found some older notes I took recently at another woodworking workshop that suggests the best solution is to use shellac (or Qualasole) with a black dye instead of a pigment for such repairs (along worn edges of furniture). I will give this a try in the next few days however my prediction is that it will apply much easier and certainly look glossier.
Thank you once again!