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Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white oak

11/14/16       
Norm Member

I'm building a pair of large bookcases, 7' tall x 60"w x 15" d from plain sawn white oak with the shelf edging and faces being 1/4 sawn. The customer wants a medium brown color to match a few other craftsman pieces in the home. I've read a variety of sources that range from a wash coat,then stain, then sealer. but none seem to be giving me the look I want. While there seem to be lots of books on the furniture, the finishing aspect being sketchy and usually focused on the lighter golden look. I'd appreciate any suggestions. I've purchased a few packets of dye stains but haven't tried them yet, but I have tried a 50/50 wash coat of clear shellac followed by both a gel stain on one and an oil stain on another. Neither really accentuated the pores or the rays. One of the articles I read was to apply a final coat of dark wax, but I dread doing that on a piece this size

11/14/16       #2: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Dennis

Have you tried it with out any wash coat, oak is one of the easier woods to finish and I have done many white and red oak pieces with pigmented stain directly on the surface, don't sand too fine maybe go to 150, of course samples first.

11/14/16       #3: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
jonathan mahnken

take a piece of the original furniture in to you local paint store and have a stain matched. Oil based with no wash coat will be your easiest bet

11/14/16       #4: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
JoeW Member

How about fuming with Ammonia? There is a thread here on Wood Web about it. It's time consuming, but worth it.

11/14/16       #5: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
JoeW Member


Try This Link

www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Fuming_white_oak.html

11/14/16       #6: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
rich c.

You definitely can't get it with a single stain and clear coat. I'd start with a dye for the base color, then stain to fill the pores. Either that or dye, wash coat, glaze, then clear coat. I can't tell you colors, because you are matching existing furniture. All that fuming talk depends on the quality of wood you used. Any sapwood at all on it looks bad. Also difficult to get an even color over the entire piece unless all your lumber came from the same tree. Even Stickley used a dye after fuming to get the deep color he wanted.

11/14/16       #7: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Norm Member

Yes, I've tried several stains, one of which came from my paint store where they got really close to the color, but again didn't bring out the rays in the 1/4 sawn. Also, I don't have room to fume a piece this size, nor the time it would take to do the parts individually. I think rich c. has the right idea, and I'll try that tomorrow. I was wondering if after the dye and wash coat to seal, spraying on a glaze, and carefully wiping it off after flashing might get the results.

11/14/16       #8: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Nick

if you can, post a picture. I just did a simular job; 18' of bookcase in 1/4 sawn oak to match a high dollar old English oak reproduction piece the customer had and yes I had to use Rich c's approach.
orange dye, wash coat, stain, seal, glaze, 2 coats of finish. l always start with the easiest approach but oftentimes the only way to put some age on a piece is with a multi-step schedule.

11/14/16       #9: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Norm Member

Nick...will do! 18 feet!!! My back is already sore just from moving all the parts around! White oak is heavy! Did you assemble the cases before finishing?

11/14/16       #10: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Nick

l'm just a humble finisher. (sanders and spray guns are what I know) they bring them to my shop in pieces. In this case (2) 4.5ft base cabs, (2) 4.5ft tops and (2) 4.5ft uppers

11/14/16       #11: Craftsman finish on 1/4 sawn white ...
Norm Member

Nick,
Now & then I need help with a finishing job and usually find that I didn't price it enough to hire a pro. But once I posted an ad for one and every time I asked if they were a painter or a finisher. Most of them asked, "What's the difference?" End of interview!Usually, I try to match the wood to the look desired, but pieces like this it's not possible and I get to learn a new technique. Thanks for the help!


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