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Finish over Waterlox, other shameful advice needed.10/16
I'm a furniture refinisher, but took a job refinishing the ceiling of a 1,800 square foot home a month or so ago. I'm in the middle of what was definitely a mistake, and I need some advice.
It's Knotty Pine.
The majority of the ceilings had terrible water damage... the home was empty for a while and the roof leaked quite a bit. My initial plan to spot repair and bleach these out failed, and I ended up sanding it all back to bare with an orbital. Yeah, I know.
I then stained this to match the parts of the house that were being kept original, and started applying Waterlox. I should have used Shellac, of course, or an airless. I realized this after the first few coats. It's too late for that now.
I have about 7 coats of the Original Sealer on there now. The sheen is just about where it needs to be... but likely could use an extra coat or two to be perfect. I'm applying it with a Lambswool nap and tipping off with a brush.
I'd like to stop the nonsense and just put something thicker on the entire ceiling, including the original sections, that will make the sheen a uniform satin/SG that isn't too shiny, but flat enough to hide some of the imperfections.
Spar Urethane? Ideally I could apply this finish the same way I have applied the Waterlox, thus far... but I'm kinda in too deep and not really sure where to go now.
Ridicule is more than welcome and I would love to hear what a professional would have done. I chose Waterlox because I am familiar with it and believed it offered me the least amount of curveballs... I've never applied it to Pine and the coverage rates on the can were way off compared to what I'm dealing with now. I welcome any and all suggestions and advice, thanks.
Here are some more pictures...
In the first image, half of this upper level area has been refinished. The line works across the room from the left white wall.
Most concerning to me are some swirl marks which only really became pronounced after sanding between the last couple of coats. They aren't terrible, but they drive me insane. I'm hoping perhaps that I flatter sheen and thicker build will minimize them?
The last image shows the type of water damage. Quite a lot on the main level.
First, let me just say it looks more than acceptable for a Waterlox finish. After the 'sealer' coat, did you apply their 'Satin' Finish as a top coat?
I toyed with that idea for a while, then ditched it. I was going to batch up a couple gallons of 50/50 Sealer/Satin... my experience with the Satin in the past wasn't great and after speaking with the Waterlox tech guys, I decided I didn't want to risk it.
Basically, I don't want to screw it up on the final coat. My fear was that streaks and lap lines might appear...
perhaps not the best answer, but you might want to consider arm-r-seal satin. you can pad it on with a thick stain pad, and it's easy to get on without streaks and has a nice sheen. it sticks to waterlox sealer... done it many times before. with a pad, could be a fast process.
something to consider. good luck with the project.
I had considered that...
Think I run the risk of lap lines? I wonder if it wouldn't be too flat, but I suppose I could thin it a bit?
Waterlox is a decent finish. I'm not sure you should use Spar as you suggested. It's very dark amber and will certainly shift the color of the wood because of all the phenolic resin they put in it (at least, that's what they used to put in it).
I believe Waterlox is an oil based finish. If you are looking to speed up your curing time, you should be able to go behind it with any other oil based urethane. Regular interior grade is much less amber than Spar.
You might even be able to use "Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Varnish" which cures a good bit faster than polyurethane, and is a decent looking product in it's own right. It's just not as tough as polyurethane. You don't need "tough" on a ceiling.
I sprayed a LOT of book cases with the Fast Dry Oil Varnish. To my eyes it looks as nice as a good precat. Just, scratches easier.