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Repairing an exterior door gouge6/25
Last year I finished a door for a client and they dropped something that gouged the door. Other than removing and replacing the damaged veneers, can anybody recommend an alternative solution?
The door was sealed with a coat of Smith's Penetrating Epoxy Sealer followed by 2 or 3 (can't remember) coats of Sikkens Window and Door in Natural color.
Bondo filler and faux painting. It would take a master artist to paint in the grain for a repair there. With the door color so crisp, nearly every single repair will show to some extent. Customer may prefer that compared to buying another door though. Curious, what's that blue/gray on the rail?
You just might be able to steam those out...I am often amazed (and relieved) at how well that can work. A steam iron, a wet rag and patience is all that's required. Even if you don,t get it all the way back to flush, it could bring it up enough fill and faux.
Quality touch-up person should be able to handle that with no problem..... fill , shape and sand the repair with Mohawk epoxy putty...I'd say natural color epoxy or maybe even pine to start the back ground color....... then a series of powdered pigments mixed with an exterior grade sealer to match background colors... build/develop the color and transparency needed..... match grain color and line in the grain with a very very fine brush..... brush exterior top coat over the repair with artist brush.... lightly sand.... and feather topcoat into the rest of the door..... If done right it will hardly be noticeable... Viola
Its a gouge not a dent. Steam won't work.
If it was paint grade bondo would be the go.
Shane is correct with an epoxy product.
The linear grain actually helps you to blend the repair back into the old.
I and many others on this forum deal with doors, tables, chairs in worst condition then your door. I would say you could do it, but to get it blended in with graining, you might need to go to a quality touch-up person. Major steps involve: 1) fill and sand flat (try to minimize sanding to wide - harder to conceal) 2) Mixup powder dyes and shellac to build a solid background color to match the Firwood, 3) Spray wash coats to lock in your colors, 4) paint in the darker tones and parts including graining. It takes years of practice, and you have to be a detailed-oriented to come out successful, and if you are thinking of leaning how to to it, check out your Mohawk dealer for classes to get you started.