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Efficient methods for 2-sided finishing?9/30
Anyone have any efficient methods or equipment for finishing items that require lacquer on 2 sides (cabinet doors, shelves,etc).
We have tried hanging but found it difficult to spray (things blowing around), especially when using a pressure pot. We have a 5000 sqft finishing area so space is not really an issue. Just looking to cut down the time spent moving items around.
With shelves you can shoot a couple screws into each end, then use them as handles and set on the screws while drying.
It is really hard to spray something like a cabinet door vertical. They swing, you have to mechanically fix hooks or something to the doors. Generally that's a no go. Depending on the size you can get wrapping of spray around the door from the exhaust fan breeze. Its similar to over spray. Anything that is finished vertically encourages runs.
As you can see there are a long list of cons versus cutting your dry times, and labor in half.
Shelves can be done hanging on a clothesline setup. Screw open hooks onto the end. Hang them in the spray room then transfer them to the drying area. Several different ways to do it efficiently.
The finish is not as critical in terms of quality. They are dead flat. Only 3 surfaces(bot, top, edge) need finishing. Whereas doors have 6 that have to be high quality.
Oh this is very, very doable, but not with a pressure pot and a conventional gun. That's going to be like trying to paint the tree leaves in a hurricane.
Switch your gun over to a true HVLP that can atomize properly at around 15psi at the cap. Most likely that's going to be an air assisted airless.
We do it daily. I am not in a position to give away all our methods, but rest assured this is doable.
As has been mentioned on this msg board in the past, nail/screw boards.
Drive four sharp pointed nails or screws into appropriately sized boards/plywood scraps then:
1. Place door or shelf face down on points and spray the back only, not edges.
A turntable stand helps to spin the item as needed. You'll only have four small pinholes on the back side of door or shelf to touch up if desired.
I've been on the WoodWeb consistently for something like 15 years. I have never seen anyone do a partial post then end it with a "proprietary" non disclosure.
Why even post?
Anyone on the planet with zero experience could write your post.
Definitely some new things we need to try out.
We do use a combo of pressure pots and air assisted pumps. Pots are dedicated to sealer and top coat, pumps are for paint to allow for quick change over. Maybe it's time to look at that set up as well.
Adam, nobody with "no experience" would have suggested that they switch over to spraying an AAA with about 15psi at the air cap, because nobody with "no experience" would have a clue that this actually works.
That's a fairly critical detail that we learned ourselves that almost completely eliminates the "whipping in the wind" problem.
I am just trying to help here, but also honor the agreement I have with the rest of our leadership. Where on this site is full disclosure either expected or required?
It doesn't take a woodworker to be an unhelpful critic, anyone with zero experience could have posted that.
Matt, yes I can tell you are experienced in finishing and most of us posting are. When we have a problem we are looking for the most efficient solution so as to move on with our work. We have no reason to trademark our practices as i'm not concerned that another shop across the state will suddenly become my competitor because i gave them help. I surely appreciate when someone helps me and look to return the favor. Being a mentor is far more rewarding.
I was annoyed when I read your post. I responded in a harsh way. My apologies.
There are no rules on WW as regards to
You obviously have knowledge of finishing. Why would you say I've got a secret method? So keep on trying and you might figure it out as well.
Reducing air pressure is a basic method. Most of us use low pressure guns regardless.
I remembered one guy 5-10 years ago that had hooks that fit into the 32mm holes on doors that allow you to hang them on a clothesline. Sounds like something Haefle or the like would sell. We don't do much euro hinge so I forgot about it.
I hope somebody can make use of that information.
Sharing information on WW has had the most positive impact on the way we operate than any other. The key word is sharing.
My actual intent was to encourage them that it totally CAN be done and the water is indeed very good here, come for a swim.
I just can't teach them how to swim.
You are right about the door clips, they do work (at least the two-pronged ones do) but you do need to be cautious with them. We probably drop one or two doors per year here by carelessness..... but then again we never have a tall "door tree" full of freshly sprayed doors fall over either lol.
There are LOTS of decisions that have to be made-- how to hang decorative panels, drawer fronts, etc...... and also, where do you hang everything while it's curing, how do you build a hanging rack....etc..... We have put a lot of sweat and blood into our method but even if I were allowed to do a full description, it probably wouldn't fit most of the shops.
I will say that one additional thing it forces.... all your new spray guys have to get damn good, damn quick. 90% of what you spray is a vertical surface. They never get used to the old crutch "pile it on", and thus you nearly never get excessive film build.
I've built a few "beds" of nails, 16"x96" section of 1/4" plywood that I put a lath nail through every 4"x4" corner, lay that on saw horses on top of 2x4's to support the weight. Works if you have room. I've also seen stackable shelves built, 2 8' parallel 2x4's about 16" apart, on the ends 2 perpendicular 16" 2x4's on top of those screwed together, then carpet nailing strips in the trench and the doors lay on top, multiples of these can be stacked to dry.
I use drying racks