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wrinkle on recoat2/7
I have a table that was damaged with acetone (nail polish remover) that I was asked to recoat. I sanded and recoated with pre-cat lacquer. The first coat fish eyed quite a bit. I sanded down to remove the fish eye,but the next coat wrinkled in a few spots. Any suggestions on how to fix without stripping? I was thinking a coat of shellac might work as a barrier coat. I have read about this technique, but never have tried. I also had two leaves to recoat that laid down fine.
Did you do anything to remove the "furniture polish" that the homeowner of cleaning people used?
I agree w Rich C. You need to clean off silicone oil 4/5 times with fresh rags, then spray shellac...then spray THIN coats of lacquer. Then keep your fingers crossed.
Post Script: Clean with naptha and clean rags 4/5 times
fish eye usually occurs when there is some contamination on the surface(oil, silicone). wrinkling usually occurs when the surface dries but below the surface is not.This can be either the coat you just applied or the solvents in the coat you just applied rewetted the previous coat(s) or a oily surface.
Two coats of Sealcoat, then topcoat. First topcoat not to heavy.
When all else fails, add a "fish eye remover" to your finish.
Remember that fish eye remover is really just more silicone and that spray gun will be contaminated.
I use the same gun for all of it, never had a problem after using fish eye remover.
I've used a Smoothie more than a few times out of my favorite/go to small job Sata 2000b clear coat gun. Cleaned it well and the next day used it to spray CV or 2k poly on a piece of custom furniture or art work valued at many $1,000.00s no problem. It works just be careful and conscious when using it and it will save you hours of effort. I wonder if those who sound the alarm of pending doom have ever used the stuff!
Speaking from experience here, I have never found silicone contamination to be something I can "barrier coat" or wash away.
I've seen shellac fisheye just as bad as precat.
I have disassembled kitchen tables, passed them through the planer and knocked off 1/16" of the surface layer of wood, and STILL got fish eyes.
If it's minor, your best bet is to try to keep your spray coats as thin as possible. The thicker you spray, the more "brain texture" you get. Also, I've found that really slow retarders make it worse... gives it more time to crater. Also, don't spray shiney sheens. I normally won't spray anything more glossy than a 35 sheen ("satin") without charging a LOT more.
If they are too bad to ignore, just add some "fish eye killer", but start with small amounts and keep spraying thin coats.
If this table is more of a showpiece, there's always the hand-rub oil finish you can do. I've done that on a few china hutches that I knew were saturated with silcone (Pledge). Client received it along with a can of paste wax, and everyone was happy.
This is after the fact, but ALWAYS solvent wash (naptha) any items to be refinished as your FIRST step before you do anything else to that item. Use clean clothes and wipe in one direction. This is before any sanding or stripping or anything, this is ALWAYS your first step.
Add fish eye flow out like Smoothie to your new sealers, toners, and topcoats.
After, clean out your gun(s). A good solvent wash (lacquer thinner) will be fine.
Dispose of your rags and wiping cloths. Dispose of your sandpapers and your Scotchbrites.
Those post-steps ought to be antiseptic enough.
Regarding fish eye flow out, adding too much softens your finish. And to the degree that you add it, it raises the sheen of your finish. Add this step to your notes so that down the road, if you see this refinish project again, you will know right away to add fish eye flow out.
There's a great upside to fish eye flow out, it makes your cured finish feels so silky, like slippery plastic. Customers love it when newly finished items feel smooth, even slippery.