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brand of caulking

11/26/19       
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

looking for opinions for the best brand of caulking when caulking the center panel of doors to the stiles and rails. Ive been using the fast dry version DAP, just wondering if theres something more awesome

11/26/19       #2: brand of caulking ...
Leo G Member

Bolt White Lightning.

For door panels I like to get the toothpaste type tube. I use my edge sander to make the tip a pointed 90º angle and as small as I can, usually a 1/32" hole. I use a pc of hanging wire to keep the hole clean. It's a little stiffer than DAP and I use a toothpaste tube key to get it out of the tube. A tube will do a couple hundred doors because of the small hole.

Bolt Caulk

11/27/19       #3: brand of caulking ...
Bart

I use Vista Paints brand of latex acrylic 25yr caulking. It's less than $2 a tube in a box. I let it dry overnight ALWAYS. The only time I had problem with caulk popping was when I caulked and shot finish over it in the same day. I use the fast dry for cabinet joints or a one off door here and there. But I'm very leary of putting finish over caulk that isn't bone dry.

11/27/19       #4: brand of caulking ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

Thanks guys. Ive recently noiced a few hairline cracks on a couple of jobs, and Im thinking that ive just been pushing the dry times way too much. I was caulking and priming in the same day, then letting all that sit over night before sanding and topcoating. Ive heard some guys say they put the caulk between primer coats. Ive always caulked before priming and it seemed to be ok... I think either way I need to go back to letting the caulk dry over night before I coat over it.

Heres my basic schedule

caulk(dap quick dry)
prime(chemcraft aquaprime)
sand
prime
sand
topcoat(General Finishes Enduro White Poly)

11/27/19       #5: brand of caulking ...
Jonathan Mahnken

Website: http://www.mahnkencabinets.com

I should also add that the cracks are not showing up immediately. In this particular instance the paint job is about 5 months old.
AND the doors that have this issue were facing afternoon sun(large windows across the room with no treatments) in a house that has yet to be lived in (climate controlled) Te doors are poplar with mdf raised panel

11/27/19       #6: brand of caulking ...
Bart

My schedule:
Prime with Zinnser bin shellac tinted gray so I can see the caulking.
sand-caulk, let sit overnight.
quick sand the raised MDF grain from wiping the caulk with wet rag.
prime the front of the door again with bin shellac.
sand
prime with General Finish white undercoat cut 60-40 with whatever GF white or off white poly I have sitting around.
sand
two topcoats of tinted GF white poly.
Total of 5 coats on the fronts and 3 on the backs.
Lots of work but they come out really plush.

We use Alder frames with mdf panels which can vary in quality quite a bit from Decorative Specialties door MFG. We quit using poplar years ago because of movement issues/cracking.

11/28/19       #7: brand of caulking ...
mastercabman

Personally I never understood why would someone caulk the center panel to the rails and stiles
Every cabinet manufacturer that I know does not do it
Beside the panel needs to move freely
Probably why some of you get hairline cracks

11/28/19       #8: brand of caulking ...
Bart

The reason mastercabman is because if I don't I get spider webs between the panel and the stile/rails. Not a good look to have a clean gap in the middle of the door/drawer and then spider webs leading to a finish sealed look in the corners. It would be nice if the MFG didn't have such a tight gap between the panel and stile/rails. And now my main clients want the caulked look. Trust me I would love not to do it.

Happy Tanxsgiving

11/28/19       #9: brand of caulking ...
Adam

We glue our mdf/plywood panels into the stiles and rails. No cracks.

11/28/19       #10: brand of caulking ...
mastercabman

Bart
Sorry if this is a dumb question but what is
Spider web?

And happy Thanksgiving

11/28/19       #11: brand of caulking ...
Jonathan Mahnken

I, like Bart, caulk in order to prevent the paint bridging between the panel and the rail. Yes you can skate by doing thin coats ect..., but what if you get one a little thick, or you have to do a respray? I see how you can do this with solvent based products, but with waterbased I see this being problematic. Those building their own doors I guess are glueing instead of caulking, but the act is similar in theory?

11/28/19       #12: brand of caulking ...
Dv Member

As a painter, we do not know how the doors are constructed so we do not know when panels are glued in place. I will say that jobs with solid solvent lacquer finishes always seem to crack over caulk eventually on house trim. And, most solid color cabinet doors or room crack if caulked. When we paint cabinet doors, we keep that panel to rail/stile open and open it up between coats if needed. It seems to only look good in the short term, caulk often pulls from these areas even if the finish doesn’t not crack. Not saying it can’t be done, but it rarely looks good at least on all wood doors.


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