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Black Grain filler acting like stain1/1
I am having a bit of trouble using Black Mohawk Black grain Filler (oil based) thinned with varsol. This fill well but it also act as a stain wich is the undesirable effect since it is a bit hard to control.
I Apply a vinyl sealer first sand with 320 grit then Apply the filler.
If I Apply it over unstained wood well it become stained black (About the same as if I had put a wiping stain). I could sans the sealer back to bare wood but then why would I bother seal before.
When I WANT to stain my wood black I usualy do this routine :
-Black dye (about 50% of final color)
Generaly by this steps the filler made the wood almost black opaque even when rubbing hard with burlap.
How do you guy approach the unstained wood?
Regarding black stained wood I came with the Following solutions but wanted to know how you guy do it?
-Apply less black dye on first step
Since I Apply a cat finish applying a thick vinyl coat is not really an option.
Tell us exactly what your trying to achieve.
Simply put I want to stain an open grain wood like ash black and fill it's pore.
From what I read when pore filling you dye/stain, seal then fill.
My problem is that my pore filler stains the sealer coat so much that it almost become opaque even when rubbing with burlap to the point where is does not come off. I would compare it to a gel stain.
Right I am experimenting applying a seal coat over unstained wood, Apply filler than sand the stained seal coat back to bare wood then resume finish Schedule.
I will also try washing the seal coat with mineral spirits/varsol to revome the stain part of the filler hoping that it doesnt pull the filler out of the pores. I heard the mineral spirits may leave residue than can hinder adhesion. Is it true? I also got Varsol wich Is supposed to be a purer form of mineral spirits ans it basicaly smells exactly like the filler
Last solution would be to skip the pigment stain step and use the filler to do both (stain and fill).
Ive discovered over the years that these types of products are heavily colored and can almost be used as base colorants. you should get some of the non colored filler as well and cut it at some percentage where you get the result you're after. also make sure youre sealer coat has cure enough
Use a powder glaze (sometimes called breakaway glaze) instead of a grain filler, most companies make them including mohawk. Spray your sealer ( the longer you let it dry the better, I usually wait at least 24 hrs), spray or brush your glaze on then rub it back with scotchbrite or mirlon, then topcoat.
Craig im pretty sure he's trying to achieve a fully filled finish on an open pore wood.... that being said your methos would render him spraying and sanding a bazillion coats to achieve this....
thanls every one for your answers. I am going for a partialy filled satin finish so I can live with post cat lacquer.
I thinks I will probably drop the sealer coat and maybe apply a thin washcoat (like you to to reduce blotching) only because filler application is easier and wood get stained less. Full sealee coats clogs sanding paper and every 30sec I must reach for my rubber cleaner even if it is dry and supposed to sand powdery.