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Installing walnut countertop on knee wall11/4
I am building a 96’‘x18’‘x1.5’’ walnut countertop to be installed on a knee wall. How can I cleanly take off the top layer of drywall and bullnose cornerbead without destroying the wall ? Then I have the issue of how to attach the wooden countertop so it is safe and secure. No knee knockers allowed.
I wouldn't do an demo. Through-bolt and plug without any substrate or brackets. Rout out for the wall, or add trim underneath for a clean joint.
Mark, maybe I'm misunderstanding, but are you referring to bolts going through the top of the counter right into the knee wall ? The top has to be free and clear of mechanical fasteners, and countersunk walnut plugs would compromise the look of the finished top.
I think this is was I am going for, just need the cleanest way of doing it :
just cut the dry wall out wherever you want to put a steel bracket. If the bracket is thicker than the dry wall then rout out a relief on the bottom of the walnut top.
My thought was since the top of the knee wall isn't level, I would remove the drywall and corner beads to get a nice flush surface to shim or add material too. I guess though, drywall or no drywall, I will need to coverup
myself, i would reanchor the top plate of the wall to studs with 1/4" riser screws. unscrew sheet rock around top plate first and put some liquid nail between top plate and sheet rock then rescrew. the countertop is only gonna be as ridged as the top plate.
You need to remove the top layer of drywall, you cannot leave it and bolt through.....unless you don't care about longevity of the top? Drywall is soft and will crumble apart underneath the top making for an unhappy customer down the road.
As far as how to remove cleanly....I don't think it's possible and wouldn't do it anyway unless I was desperate for cash! I'm a woodworker, not a contractor, let the client deal with prep and you deal with making them a nice walnut counter. If you are going ahead than your going to have to remove whatever is on top of the wood. You could try to cut it clean with a roto type tool, but if there is metal bead under there forget it! Your going to have to blast the whole top out removing any bead until your flush with the wood. Install your steel plates, then plaster/compound to clean it back up. Or alternatively.....tack on some trim wide enough to cover the mess;>)
I could just use the router and make 4 or 5
Oh, the hallway ends early and 90% of the countertop/bar is open to the living room.
Any more suggestions are more than appreciated !!!!! Thanks Guys !!!!
I was just getting ready to post what Jeff D did until I read his post. You must remove the sheetrock. If there are metal bullnose corners under there, you're in for a chore. If they are plastic they will cut quite easily with a jig saw. Cut through the sheetrock with a utility knife and cut corners with a jig saw....easy enough. Caulk and paint or trim when your finished.
The counter and back splash are solid surface not granite
I take that back...the bullnose is on the top to. You'll have to cut well below where the bottom of the top sits to get the bullnose pieces off. The nailing flange on those are
Yes, its solid surface. I am wondering if I remove the drywall off the top, can I then use a hacksaw to flush the corner bead up with the 2x4 top ? ? ? I need something that
How thick is that steel? I would mock that up in the shop and show the customer how flexible it will be. You can just use some common 2x stock in the shop, no need to put holes in the walnut. But you can prove the design before the destruction. Just because they won't let you put in "knee knockers", doesn't mean it's a good design. Flat steel with that amount of everhang, is pretty flexible. Unless it's an inch thick. You'll need a bent leg on the horizontal to add strength, and probably a angled gusset.
Those steel brackets are pretty standard for granite c-tops, so should be plenty strong enough for walnut. All the ones I've seen used are either 3/16" or maybe 1/4" thick.
The brackets are half-inch thick rolled steel, I think it should be plenty strong to hold up the countertop. Its meant for granite, so walnut shouldn't be a problem. But as always I say this based off of the salesman, have yet to order them. Lets hope for the best !
You could install a substraight of plywood half inch or three quarter liquid nail as well as screws, build top with a drop edge to conceal substraight, then screw upthrough bottom of substraight and possibly liquid nail. Top is not granite so no real need for steel supports. Unless your doing chinups on the overhang substraight should be sufficient. I have done many laminate bar tops like this never a problem and looks great. Good luck.
I would use my Fein Multimaster and Porta cable drywall vacuum. The trim is probably plastic as I've never seen metal bead in that shape. If you run into metal, change to metal cutting blade. If I found metal bead, I would switch to Milwaukee sawsall. There will be lots of dust if that is the case.
Thanks for all the input guys...more ways than one to skin a cat. I always over build for safety purposes and I think a bare 2x4 top plate and 1/2 thick rolled brackets that are notched in will work. The top is 1 1/2 thick throughout, no built up edge or substrate method. Fein Multimaster is a great idea but I don't own one. Maybe I'll get a lower priced option instead. Hopefully the corner bead is plastic. I think I'll have to trim out the long wall side to cover up the shims but calking is my only options for the sink side.
I beg to differ with whoever said that they have never seen metal bullnose for drywall finishing. Actually metal bullnose is quite popular and generally used by drywall guys as it is stiffer and therefore easier to install. Regardless of what material that bullnose is I fear that you will have a real hard time getting a clean cut because if it moves at all then it will flake off the skim coat finish over the remaining bullnose leg. I do hope that I am wrong on this one.
What if you were to clamp a 1x over the solid surface backsplash and the other side of the drywall before demo, use it like a cut guide for your multimaster saw. This would help prevent scarring the top edge of the backsplash with the saw and give a straighter cut too.
Best of luck with this project. Where did you buy your steel brackets from?
A multi master will make a surgical cut, but if you don't have one, you might opt for an angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel. Cuts thin metal of all kinds fast, but dirty.
I'd start by just removing drywall. After several razor cuts (be patient, to avoid running off your lines), I'd start in the middle of the drywall being removed and work out to the edges.
For an easy, but solid mount of the counter top, I'd remove just enough drywall to install the counter [against studs] and to give working access above or below, as needed to securely mount the brackets, and install additional blocking between studs (depending on your approach).
If you choose to remove, say, 3-1/2" below, just mount drywall back over and cover with trim, unless you want to tape, texture and paint. If you do it on top, you have back splash opportunities.
And--- ditto on the Multimaster (Fein Tool). Just run it wide open and use a fine tooth blade, to reduce vibration transfer.
I used mine in place of a razor knife when installing under cabinet lighting [before the rest of the kitchen was taped, textured and painted].
Mine is the old style (uses an Allen wrench), which I'm thinking about selling to upgrade to the tool-less version. For only two hundred, I cannot picture not having one. Like many of our tools (e.g., impact drivers), after you have it, you find thousands of uses for it.
So what did you do and how did it work out?
I also have a cedar countertop to install on a Pony/Half wall. Great info here; however, wondering when using the steel flat supports is there a way to screw the overhang end into the underside of the top? Would you also apply adhesive to the underside area of the wood that sits on the wall?
Firstly, thanks for the informative thread so far.
Im trying to do exactly the same thing in that I need to install a wooden breakfast bar on top of an existing kitchen pony wall (worktops and units already in place).
I was planning to take off the top layer of plasterboard down to the wooden crossbeam as has been discussed here, however, i have found an added complication in my case is the wall is the thin metal stud kind rather than wood. I'm therefore not sure the top brackets will have enough purchase if I just screw them into the metal.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to how I could fit this on?
Thanks very much