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Installing painted crown molding3/20
I am going to be doing a painted kitchen in the past I was able to install my crown to the cabinets in the shop prior to painting but on this job I will not be able to do that so I am looking for some info on how to fill the nail holes and touching up the miters
I do all my prefinished mouldings the same way. Cut on the miter saw with the best blade you can find, no thin kerfs, and keep your hands and the saw clean to keep marks off the wood.
Buy FastCap's 2 part 10 second glue and glue the miters together (I usually run a bead down the back of an outside miter and screw the inside miters together) so I can install the longest length possible.
To clean up the mitres once assembled I just burnish them with a clean screwdriver shaft, it pushes the finishes together and rounds off the corner just enough.
I can usually get away with installing 80 or 90 % of the runs in 1 piece. And then either pin from the top down or the cabinet up.
Get paid, go home, start the BBQ.
We bring along an air-brush. After installing, we lightly break the miters with 360 grit paper, hold an "overspray" mask (simply put - a piece of formica) on the ceiling and lightly mist finish color lacquer on the joints, as well as all nail holes previously filled with paint grade caulk. Using Lenmar or Campbell pre-cats that flow in perfectly and not show "spot" spray marks.
This techniques draws oohs and ahhhs from the homeowners who appreciate miters that look like they grew together..
Note: we use Grex 23 gauge pins to install which minimizes the fastener hole sizes. And the Grex, unlike many of the knockoffs does not leave an "impact" mark which is usually larger than the actual pin nail.
Stain grade with clear finishes we do the same, however using putty and clear coating afterward. Not always necessary but some ceiling lights do draw attention to even the smallest of pin holes such as the 23 gauge.
If your miters are not cut perfectly - then that's a different matter. I'm speaking here of miters that are cut as close to perfect as possible so no fillers are required. Naturally paint grade (solid colors) are more forgiving than clear coat/stain and can be filled if necessary, then apply a bit of sealer coat followed by color coats. Yea, sounds time consuming but really only takes less than ten minutes - small price to pay to have perfect looking miters.
Before starting that 10 minute process I call the wife and tell her to pre-heat the grill, it's all hot and ready to go when I get home to throw on my steak, ribs, burgers or wings... ;-)
Thanks some great info I like the grill part
Spend the cash on the Grex 23 gauge pinner that shoots 1.5" pins.
Use Muralo Spackle for filling the holes.
Mohawk Fil-Stik putty sticks are a great way to clean up the 23ga nail holes and miter corners. With the correct color you get a nearly invisible fill. Painted colors are the toughest, especially whites since there are so many shades.
Nicest thing about them are they can be top coated. I used them in the spray room all the time. That and Blendal Sticks and Ultra Mark markers.
I just gave up and bought all of them so I wouldn't have to worry about not having the right color. Great investment.