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Wood Boring Insect Larva Prevention5/8
Does anyone have any suggestions or recomendations for the prevention of PPB and other wood borer larva from hatching
We built a 12' X 24' Log Cabin using air dried 6" X 8" SYP dovetail logs
This is the a photo of the portable cabin in under construction being built o sale
I am far from an expert on the topic, but I used to own and live in a log house. Every two or three years I had to spray on some sort of sealer/stain/protectant which was supposed to guard against insect damage. It was NASTY stuff, I had to wear a full head to toe protective suit and if you got a drop on your skin, it burned like crazy. But it did work.
I don't remember the brand name anymore, but I got it from one of the local log house builders in my area.
Thank You For your input
The risk of PPB with SYP is close to zero. The lyctid PPB prefers grainy hardwoods, so softwoods are not at risk. The low MC eliminates damage from most other insects. However, because you need a chemical on the inside of the house that is safe for humans, does not smell, lasts a long time, penetrates to wood a little bit, does not color the wood, does not add water back, and maybe a few more, you have no chemical that you can use. You could fumigate the house (expensive and not long lasting) to kill any existing insects if you do find some activity in the future.
On the outside, the requirements change, so there are some chemicals that can be used. Unfortunately, borates can easily leach out from rain wetting or other water sources. Even so, repeated applications to you get reasonable penetration so the chemical retention is high enough to work well, is probably your best option to avoid new insects from entering. Any insects in the wood now would be hard to reach with any chemical, so fumigation is probably the only choice. On the other hand, some insects do so little damage and will not likely ever mate, that they are ignored. In addition, we know that almost all insects find wet wood is easier to eat, so you will help matters if you keep the exterior wall as dry as possible, including no plants near the wall (allowing the wall to dry quickly if wetted) and a water repellant coating on the wood, including the end grain. With a new design, we also want to keep the wood away from the soil at least a foot and, if using a crawl space, use a soil blanket and foundation venting- - standard construction techniques.
Thank You Very Much
I assume there is neither snow nor wind load where that structure is - that roof would fold up in a stiff breeze, from the looks of that truss system, if I can use those words loosely enough.
Next time, hire an engineer to design the roof. That thing will not last long in the real world.
The log cabin doesn't have a roof on it
One sure-fire way to get rid of the bugs is to burn that thing down now.
I'll provide the gasoline and a match.