Hi All - we live in the Atlanta area and had to cut down a few big red oaks in mid-November what we want to salvage. Fortunately, I've found a sawyer who seems to know what he's doing and has been helpful so far with all my questions, but wanted to also bounce a few questions off the collective here for more advice.

I'm a hobbyist and have a few projects in mind, but down the road plan to sell the rest as either unfinished or finished slabs.

-roughly calculated = 3295 bd/ft
-dia ranges from 19-42"
-lengths 8-10 ft.
-was thinking of slicing into 12/4 slabs to maximize live edge
-live in Atlanta, GA.
-wood will be stored outside, stickered on 1x2s, with a 4x4 4mil plastic base and with either a foamboard or plastic roof.

I'm really trying to minimize mistakes out of the gate. Questions:

1. any obvious mistakes with my plan?
2. Carpenter bees are prolific in the spring in my area. What to do?
3. anything else obvious necessary I should consider now before waiting.....

Thank you all!

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I would cut the Oak into 5/4 if you have no real reason for it's use. Easier to dry and handle.

Most live edge slabs in my area are cut 10/4 so that after flattening you end up with a 2" slab. Make sure your base that you stack and sticker on it flat otherwise if you stack your lumber on a curved or twisted surface it will conform to that curve or twist. Be careful that whatever you were mentioning doing with plastic is really going to keep moisture off and not trap it in. Lastly, over the next few months of air drying, I would consider building a solar kiln. In GA I imagine if you start drying by May in a solar kiln you would be finished by July or Aug. a solar kiln with speed up the process without a lot of cost or risk of ruining your wood. I build mine for $400. The Wood Dr. has some great articles here about drying and solar kilns.

Because thick oak is difficult to dry, especially in Atlanta, I suggest strongly to make them 5/4. Also, There are more customers for 5/4 than slabs in the South.

Bees are seldom an issue with oak. They like to return to their old haunts. They HARDWOOD LUMBERprefer softer woods.
Cover the top of the stack and one edge with Shade-Dri. Read appropriate chapters in DRYING

Wow...my last message got jumbled. It should read

Bees are seldom an problem with oak. They like to return to their old haunts. They prefer softer woods.

Cover the rop of the stack and one edge with Shade-Dri, a plastic burlap material that can be used to slow drying.

Read appropriate chapters in DRYING HARDWOOD LUMBER

DRYING HARDWOOD LUMBER is available in the archives here at WoodWeb.

If you have not already done so, paint the ends of those logs with Anchorseal or aluminum roofing coating to reduce end checking. Some is already obvious in the log in your photo, so cut a few inches off and then coat it.

I suggest you cut one 12/4 slab and try to pick it up. Also, 12/4 will likely take at least 3 years to air dry. Personally, I would have it all quarter sawn at 5/4.

John

Normal air drying can usually air dry 8/4 oak if a few precautions are taken. But, 12/4 will take more serious precautions. It is nearly essential to have an air drying shed with reduced air flow. For an inexperience air drying person, 12/4 oak is not the best way to begin or learn.

Air Drying time would be two summers to get down into the 20% range. You can go into a kiln sooner, but it would tie up the kiln for a long time.

I live in Atlanta area too and have lots of problems with several different kinds of boring bugs in my wood that is stored under pole barns. I would spray with timbore as soon as it is cut to prevent any bug problems. Or Solubor I believe is exactly the same, but cheaper because it is sold for a different application and is regulated differently.
http://www.7springsfarm.com/solubor-boron-20-5-50-lb/