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Another safety/jig/sketchy cut question4/6
Seeing as I can harvest jig making superpowers here... (*cough cough*-- Dave W)
See pics. Another upright cut, with fence to the left, saftey question. But it's for small hardwood maple piece. We do a lot of these--height always 5 1/4 ", width varies from 3 1/4" to 10 1/2 "
Needs a different sort of jig for sure. Any ideas/general directions?
First thoughts are to make a carrier that holds the piece at the proper angle so you don't have to crank the blade for tilt, or move the fence to left of the blade.
Set the jig so it rides in both slots of the table, and pushes that threatening little wedge back beyond the blade, out of harm's way. Be sure to build in a backup fence to hold the part square to the table/world. Consider making the side cuts with the same jig, same time.
Or consider making the wide cut on the shaper with that nice adjustable bevel tooling that you may be using for that angled cut to the vent hood faces. A shop made tenon jig will hold it, and could do the side cuts as well.
If you stick to the saw, and do enough, rethink those fingers close to the blade. One or two is a lot different from 30 or 40. A De-Sta-Co clamp would be a step up. An air clamp would be best, and could be revved up with a foot activated switch.
It may also be wise to enclose the path of travel so that the blade is generally not exposed. The likely accident here is moved to putting a part in or removing one, and dropping it on the blade.
I like the idea of keeping the blade 90 degrees from the table. And using the gauges for a perfect perpendicular. What about using the cross cut sled?
See pic--what about something like this?
Btw--I like those vertical clamps you pointed out. My new epiphany is that I need to explore clamps more.
Loose clamps are not desired around spinning saw blades. Use the bolt on DeStaCo or similar so there are less parts to handle. The only thing that can ever be lose is the part you are cutting.
Think of a cross cut sled, two runners for the saw table, a tunnel that will cover the blade before and after the cut (as well as hold the two halves of the jig together...). And two stations, both at the prescribed angle - one for the edges, and a second one for the face. You might even rig it so you can do all three cuts, on 3 separate parts in one clamp, one push and return.
"The only thing that can ever be lose is the part you are cutting."
Wait a sec--does that mean I could keep my jig as-is, but not vis-clamp it, just ride it with a hand on it?
That would meet the perpendicular hold-back/parallele feed requirements I think?
Thanks again Dave :)
The quantity of wood parts to make - from few to many - is one line on a graph.
The other line is harder to quantify - the relative safety of hand holding materials vs solidly positioned fixed clamps, and the inherent increased complication/cost to the process. I would not consider a loose clamp unless the quantity was less that 3 parts.
This jig, as it has evolved in my head, would have three stations: left side clip, right side clip, and face cut. With low quantities, only the face cut would be clamped in place (with a clamp that is fastened to the jig), The two side cuts would be done on the near fence (relative to operator), with one just in front of the other. All parts would locate and be held at 3 points, plus the clamping/holding as the 4th.
Sequence would be:
I think it's times to order destacos. Then I'll hit the drawing board again.
Thanks Dad :)