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Finish planing, helical and quick change knives

2/2/18       
Bill Member

Website: http://heirloomwindows.com

I have a small wooden window factory and have been purchasing my poplar stock from a saw mill with a double sided helical planer. They let me cut my wood to length then joint/plane it for flatter boards. However, even when the Extrema planer is tuned in with fresh carbide the wood has “micro voids” and needs sanded or finished again. After much experimentation I’ve found my little Dewalt 735 cleans the surface nicely, with no further attention needed before priming/staining. BUT, it’s a hobbyist tool and the motor overloads during long runs. I need a stationary planer that gives the same finish as the Dewalt but is much more rugged. Also, I LOVE the easy with which I can change the blades in the Dewalt.

So, since I can’t get the Dewalt 735 with 7.5hp 3ph I need to find the next best thing.

I’m looking for a stationary planer with a) straight, quick change blades b) a smooth finish c) plenty of power.

Is the Jet JWP-15DX 15” 3-hp Planer the only one on the market with quick change knives like the bench-tops?

Any other suggestions?

Can ANY helical give the same quality cut as a a good straight knife planer?

Cheers!

2/2/18       #2: Finish planing, helical and quick c ...
David R Sochar Member

Are you familiar with Tersa Heads? These straight knives are available in a few HSS and Carbide types, and have two edges on each knife. Tap them down into the head a bit, and they slide out the end of the head. Slide in the new ones and turn on the machine. If it takes more that 5 minutes, you should find another line of work.

These give a very clean cut; the HSS on Pine makes it shimmer. The carbide is more durable of course, but also very sharp.

However, it is always recommended that all wood, especially exterior wood, be sanded before any type of finish. The sanding provides a mechanical and chemical bite for the finish.

4/15/21       #3: Finish planing, helical and quick c ...
arrrwillie Member

Website: http://www.allhandsboatworks.org/about-us/

Bill,
I would think sanding is the only step you need to take after the Extrema.
I'm not sure I understand what micro-voids are and why you mention "finishing again". Do you mean you get pinholes in your finish after finishing directly off the Extrema? The grain is very open after a fresh cut. Sanding is needed to create tooth and consistency on your surface for a better finish.
Helical heads are great but always are apt to leave "edge" markings. I've used some of the best available and we always had to sand. That is the most wise course of action regardless because finishes require sanded tooth to adhere well.
Tersa never performed as I wanted. They are thin and not sufficiently supported and therefore are not a durable solution. As soon as the micro edge hit a piece of hard maple the sound level increased and cut quality decreased. My theory was that the super fine and sharp micro edge didn't last more than one hour on the machine. I was always interested in the heavier gage Terminus blades but never tried them. With Tersa the dulling always happened regardless of the steel we tried. We did not spring for carbide. We wanted quality not durability. I spoke with Tersa people years ago and got stubborn hubris.
We have a DW375 and the existing factory knives last much longer compared to Tersa that I formerly used on a much nicer 7hp machine.
Sand straight off the extrema and I think you will get good results. Maybe invest in a small wide belt sander. (not drum)

3/23/22       #4: Finish planing, helical and quick c ...
Jason

David did Tersa change designing of their tooling? Just curious about what you were describing. Tapping the the blades down and sliding them out. I have older tooling so just wondering.


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