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tapered staves for cylinder

1/22/19       
Ed Pionkowski Member

Website: http://islandfurnitureltd.net

Need to produce 52 tapered cylinder table bases of sapele. Base is 18". top 12" x 27 1/2" high. I can taper the staves on the saw and then use the shaper for the bevels. Will then turn the base round on the lathe. Does anyone have any tips as to a better/more efficient way to do this?

Variable Angle Chamfers in a Production Job

1/22/19       #2: tapered staves for cylinder ...
rich c.

Why not taper and bevel on the saw at the same time?

1/23/19       #3: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Bill

I agree, taper and bevel at the same time. You might want to build a jig.

1/23/19       #4: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Ed Pionkowski Member

These tapered cylinders will be natural finish, so I can't afford to have any filler in the joints - hence bevel on th3e shaper. If I find out that the finish off the saw is acceptable I will definitely go that way . Many thanks for the responses.

1/23/19       #5: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Bill

The key for good joints is flat material. If you cut it with a warp it cuts a curved line that will make a poor seam.

1/23/19       #6: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Mark B Member

Could you not process them all on the shaper with a couple of back fences? Straight blanks, first fence establishes taper 1, second taper 2? Flat stock would seem to be a given as the subsequent glue up x 52 will be a hoot.

2/5/19       #7: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Keith Newton

What I’ve done, is to use a technique for strip canoe making, by milling a half round on one edge, and a matching flute on the other. The angle isn’t an issue and they self align. I like to use epoxy thickened with colloidal silica to thicken it to about latex paint which gives plenty of open time.

You night could figure out how to glue the whole conical cylinder at once, but I think I would shoot for just over halves, then join the halves after the epoxy cured.

I cut female template arcs with a stop /tab sticking in so clamps pushing down on the other side crowds them all together.

Epoxy is as slippery as grease when wet and since the tapered staves are wedges they will try to slip out the end unless the bottom arc has an end-stop.

Here is a link to photos of a panga panga coffee table I designed and made about 25 years ago.

Photos

2/6/19       #8: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Ed Pionkowski Member

Thanks Keith - Never thought of doing it this way. Just to be clear, this is the same method used on strip planked wooden hulls using a concave/convex configuration on the mating sides of the staves. Are we on the same page?
Wow. That's a beautiful coffee table.

2/6/19       #9: tapered staves for cylinder ...
Keith Newton

Yes, that is where I got the idea from, having made one before.

Notice on the inside I left a filet. The reason for that was that if the bullnose edge side were tangent, the face would start to push a gap the further it’s rotated. So to prevent this, I didn’t center the cutter height on the material thickness. And on the flute I set the cutter height the same, but didn’t use the full depth so there would be more room before the filets met. It’s been a long time since I did this, so I’m not sure exactly, but it’s easy to figure out just by fooling with it.

Sorry I’m so late in finding your thread. Have you already done some or all of the project? Send me an email , and I’ll send you my phone number. I’ve got more tips I can share,

I did that piece outboard on a PM model 45 by the way.


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