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Stroke anding technique

10/31/19       
Tom Gardiner

I have been using a Progress stroke sander for years but I have a recurring problem. I mostly sand solid panels with 120x and veneer with 150 and 180x. My technique is to work across the panel starting from the right then move left overlapping passes 1/3 - 1/2 of the pad. The belt is passing right to left.
The problem is that there is a trace of the right side of the pad left in a criss cross visible in raking light.
I have tried sanding right to left then returning left to right but I still sometimes am left with the snaking line.
Things I have tried:
Offsetting the pad on the fulcrum so the right side of the pad is further away from the swivelling pivot of the lever - my suspicion is that the action of the belt is drawing the leading edge of the pad down into surface.
Lighter pressure with more passes
Higher pressure with a single pass
Ensured the pad is flat and replaced the graphite
Have anyone experienced something similar? And what is your sanding technique or pattern.

11/5/19       #2: Stroke anding technique ...
Bill Member

This is for flat work?

11/5/19       #3: Stroke anding technique ...
BH Davis  Member

Website: http://www.bhdavis.net

Tom,

Is the pad attached to the machine or a free hand held paddle?

I haven't used a stroke sander in 20+ years but before then I used them a lot. I always worked with a hand held paddle that gave me a lot of control on the amount of pressure applied.

I've seen pictures of machines with an integrated paddle but have never used one.

BH Davis

11/6/19       #4: Stroke anding technique ...
Tom Gardiner

Yes for flat work. The pad is on an arm. The pad is held on the arm with a sort of gimble mount. Wood backer with 1/2" thick neoprene under a graphite sheet.
I haven't used a hand block but maybe I should finish off with a block for a final pass.
I have concluded that part of the problem is that I am too cheap. Fresh abrasive reduces the tendency to leave the traces.

11/6/19       #5: Stroke anding technique ...
Joe Calhoon

Early on I used a Samco lever arm stroke sander. Really a stretch to remember but your technique sounds right. Make sure the pad is contacting the material flat. Check this with some pencil lines. I remember rounding the edges of the pad slightly. Light touch is better. I miss that machine but they have a huge footprint.

11/6/19       #6: Stroke anding technique ...
Keith Newton

Tom I've got an Oakley with the pad attached to an arm with 3.5 ratio to the fulcrum length.

The technique I use, is to move both the bed in and out simultaneously with moving the pad left and right along the belt. this produces a 45º path across the panel. I start at the right side, and when I get to the left end, I switch the pattern so the 45º is in the opposite direction but with less pressure.

It takes a little practice to get the hang of it, but soon feels natural. It requires a bit of sensitivity to get it right.

11/6/19       #7: Stroke anding technique ...
Bill Member

Not what you want to hear but move to a wide belt as soon as you can. In addition to speed you will get greater consistency so things stain more evenly.

Good luck!

11/6/19       #8: Stroke anding technique ...
Tom Gardiner

Thanks for the responses. I will try the 45° pattern out. I am going to make sure there is a slight round to the pad and futz around with the fulcrum point a bit. The pad swivels so I can't do much without the weight of the pad making the leading edge to drop.
With regards to a wide belt it is not in my near future but I could certainly make use of one. Just need one more machine...

11/6/19       #9: Stroke anding technique ...
rich c.

A wide belt is for a much different purpose and you don't get the same kind of result as a stroke sander. I also always used a soft pad on a free paddle. I even made some as simple as a piece of foam under a piece of denim. Lasted an incredibly long time! But this soft paddle would give the result with 120 that looked and felt much more like 150 grit or better. I could concentrate on a little tear out, and feather it in. I've never worked with a high end wide belt, but with the low end I used, the scratch pattern was very deep and course. Flat and uniform for sure, but I got a better finish sanding when I went from the low end wide belt to the stroke sander and then to random orbit.

11/12/19       #10: Stroke anding technique ...
Kevin Jenness

I have a similar problem with my Mini Max L55, which has a lever operated platen. Because the table is stationary and the belt assembly tracks in and out it does not lend itself well to a freehand platen. I don't recall having such an issue when I had a Boice-Crane with hand-held platen, but then I didn't use it as much.

I seem to get better results with overlapping straight passes in line with the grain than with an oscillating technique, but I have resigned myself to finishing up with a ros. The stroke sander is a great way to refine the widebelt scratch pattern- I wish I could get a completely finish-ready surface with it.

11/19/19       #11: Stroke anding technique ...
Bruce H

I'd try a loose pad. I use something really crude, wood concrete trowel with foam glued on the bottom, graphite cloth over that. I think it provides really nice control in the sanding process.

12/19/20       #12: Stroke anding technique ...
Charles Wright  Member

Website: http://www.northcreekwoodworks.com

Ditch the rubber. Try using 3/16 or 1/4" felt on a hand pad. Keep moving the table in and out on you final pass


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