Alder Kitchen / Entertainment center

Lyle, Can you tell me what you charged homeowner for Entertainment Center? I need to keep up on current pricing. Thank you, Mike V

Absolutely beautiful...can you tell us something about the finishing..color of stain,glaze,top coat,etc...?

Michael,
I could tell you that we are charging about $15,000.00 for something like this but it is based on our operating expenses - not yours.
I have seen others do a similar project - not the same quality, but to the non-professional a decent copy - for around $6,000.00.
We pride ourself in finish and install and build all items in house. We also do the design work and custom fit everything to the homeowners needs. All that time drives the cost up but ensures a perfet fit - both dimensionally and to the clients needs.
Can I ask you what you might charge for something like this?
Thanks,
Lyle

lyle, 15,000 for the entertainment center or the kitchen or both? I've been slowly raising my prices and if your getting 15,000 just for the entertainment center I better multiply my charge by 2. Might be a hair low for the kitchen. Please send me more info on how you are bidding. I've been in business for 7 months and every bid seems different. Thanks

Kol,
The cost was for the entertainment center alone.
It included the lighting system, glass, speaker cloth, finished interior, and removable frame at the TV which also allows for future modifications ifa new TV is required.
We mitre everything and use no face nailng.
All cabinets are scribe fit - no trim at the walls to cover unsightly gaps.
All interiors are sprayed prior to assembly - no runs or drips this way.
This is a fine piece of furniture.
I feel you have to look at it that way when pricing it out.
It is easy to justify the cost when you look at what a furniture store would charge you for a production made cabinet with particle board interiors and a cheap finish - not to mention the fact that they do not install.
I am sure that it would cost you in excess of $10,000.00 at a mid range store.
We are true custom, designed to the owner's specs. We should be compensated for our design time and that also drives the cost up.
In the end, if I was just a one man shop and built this of off my own stick figure sketches I am sure I could cut some costs. I would also not be paying the high workman's comp rates and all the other expenses that come with an employee.
The cost each of us has to produce the exact same cabinet will vary.
The key is finding your niche and making money at it.
After all you have a family to feed just the same as your clients.
Like I said earlier, the client truly felt he got his money's worth, even though it may seem expensive at first - as it did to him until I walked him through the process.
He was so happy with the entertainment center and kitchen we completed a full remodel on his house.
Good luck on your venture - and remember - don't sell your self short - get paid for your work and provide quality work in return.

Beautiful work! The kitchen is simply spectacular and a good combination of traditional with a contemporary edge to it. Keep up the excellent work.

Is that a vinyl window?!?

Greetings, Beautiful projects.
The bottom line in business is not cost but profit. If you charge a bazillian bucks for a job but dont make a profit than you need to prioratize your scope of things.
Bidding a project is an art in itself.
In this case whats good for the goose isent good for the gander......RCB

Lyle,
What kind of glue joint do you use for the mitered door frames? Also how do you scribe fit the cases to the walls? Using a dividers and following the wall contour and then sanding to the line? I've never heard of scribe mold.
Thanks

Dave,
On our Doors we use a standard glue joint with the Hoffman Dovetail Key on the backside - usually walnut keys.On our cabinet faces to ends we pocket screw and glue the joint. The glue holds the joint but the pocket screws allow us to get it off the bench quicker.
As for our install, you are correct. We do use dividers / scribing tools and then we use a skill saw and or sander which ever best suites the scribe best.
Scribe mold is usually 3/16 x 3/4 solid wood to match the cabinets and applied after the cabinet is butted to the wall to cover the gaps. This is the cheap and easy way to do it - although, once you get used to scribing it really doesn't take that much longer. (We did have a client a while back ask when we were going to come back and finish the job because all the "pretty" moldings at the sides weren't installed..... we actually had to make up some scribe mold and put it over the nicely scribed ends - what a shame.)
Hope that answers your questions.