Very nice job Eric. I really like the panels on the back of the peninsula. Did you make the mitered doors, or outsource them?
Could you explain your finishing schedule on this job, as I have to do a similiar project in the next couple of months, and I have only done one other glazed finish, which was very minimal compared to what you did here.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your input. We made the miter doors and panels in house. As far as the finishing, total finish on this job took me and one other person about 3 days to complete. First step was two coats of white vinyl sealer, fininsh sanded with 300 grit after each coat. Next was a heavy wet coat of pigmented laqcuer. Glaze was put on by sponge and wiped off. We then waited 24 hours to ensure the glaze was completely dried, then sprayed a wet coat of laqcuer finish. The only problem we had was with the taller doors on the pantry. One of them warped a little and we could not adjust it out. We had to build another door. Anyone have any suggestions on doors this big? Client specifically requested these tall doors.
I can't zoom in enough to see if your kitchen is beaded inset. If it is then the stiles/rails must only be 1 1/2" wide...that would certainly explain the door warping. Please tell me about your door construction.
On taller doors we tend to pu a mullion in and that tends to get the door panels smaller so there is not so much of a chance of them warping. I didn't see one on the pantry doors if i was looking right
Door construction was biscuit joint on miters, glued and bradded. We did not have problems with any of the doors except for the one pantry door. Stile/rails are 2", half inch overlay hinges. The client wanted the doors to be one panel to give the look she wanted. Is there some sort of brace that can be put on the back of the door? Maybe a diagonal brace or something along those lines?
Thanks for the responses.
Sorry Adam, I didn't realize what you were asking until after i posted. The door stiles/rails are 2 1/2" wide. The bead is cut in the stock with a magic molder, not applied. Stock was run, miter cut to length, then assembled using biscuits.
You should ask the client if they would like the door and window casing glazed to match as well. It looks funny in contrast.
I did a glazed kitchen that the corner cabinets had 53" high doors. I was worried about twist as soon as I saw it on the plan.
I took my time looking for the straightest looking grain to do these doors with so I wouldn't have to do them again (used MDF panels) . It seems to have worked out well for me as I have done several sets since and they are all still working (shutting straight) without any trouble. (by the way, I did cope/stick construction)
I know that the more I push my luck with these things the more likely I will be to get burned somehow.....so if I see this on a plan ....I zing them so I am not digging into my own pocket when something goes wrong.
I loved the job you did.....But I agree with the other writer that the trim doesn't support this very ornate kitchen. There is 2 1/2" colonial casing and speedbase and 0 crown in what seems to be the entire house. It looks out of place (don't you think??)
Either way, Nice Job on the kitchen!
Thanks to all for the input. I do agree with you about the trim. I did mention it to the client, but they insisted the trim match the remainder of the house. It doesn't look as odd in person, i guess the pictures kinda make you focus on the bright white trim. I'm not sure as to the reason for no crown in the remainder of the house.....guess I will focus on the aspects that I can control. Thanks again.
Very nice kitchen Eric. I do a lot of glazes and glaze over opaque is one of the most challenging. I would prefer to see less gloss in the topcoat on a finish like this one. We use a dull sheen for most of our glazes. It has a less modern and plastic feel.
|Add your comment Below|